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1998 5.2 1500 no start issue

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  #11  
Old 06-08-2011, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Haven't the faintest.

If it was on the motor when you installed it, good chance it was damaged. (a common fate for them in such circumstances..... same if the trans was installed with it in place.)

Do you get injector pulse?

The wiring unit is getting sent back to get checked out so any further actual troubleshooting to it with voltage is gonna be on hold. Injector pulse, well it was checked off the cam sensor and it did have fluctuation in current.
 

Last edited by cpm52; 06-08-2011 at 11:32 AM.
  #12  
Old 06-08-2011, 12:12 PM
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Ok, guess we will have to wait until you got it back together, and take it from there..... Keep us informed.

And POST SOME PICS!!
 
  #13  
Old 06-09-2011, 06:30 AM
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I second that
 
  #14  
Old 06-10-2011, 06:17 PM
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Will do after it starts.
 
  #15  
Old 06-24-2011, 08:10 PM
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Update

Pops received the wiring panel back (checked out good) and through a painfull rewiring process the same no start/spark condition is present.

Initially with the original PCM the fuel pump would not shut off after 20 seconds. Intalled PCM #2 and now everything seems to function properly outside of no spark, fuel pump shuts off @ 20 seconds etc..

Still no bang.

Really don't want to see him end up slapping on a intake and carb at this point, hoping the miracle answer is a brainwave away....
 

Last edited by cpm52; 06-24-2011 at 08:39 PM.
  #16  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:41 AM
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Do you have battery voltage at the coil positive and injector positives when powered up. ( should be the green wire with orange tracer,or visa-versa). Being a street rod, do you have the original coil, or are you trying to use an aftermarket? sometimes a ballast resistor is required to make the computer happy on say a accel super coil(the big one).

I still would try another crank sensor if everything else checks out......if I remember correctly you said you had a slight voltage jump on your 5v supply after plugging in the CPS. This is generally the place you end up with a no start condition.

The motor did have the original flex plate with the timing holes in it, correct?

I assume that it's been verified that the dist is turning and the motor is in time?

Just trying to think outside the box.......
 
  #17  
Old 06-25-2011, 05:00 PM
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Do you have battery voltage at the coil positive and injector positives when powered up. ( should be the green wire with orange tracer,or visa-versa). Being a street rod, do you have the original coil, or are you trying to use an aftermarket? sometimes a ballast resistor is required to make the computer happy on say a accel super coil(the big one). Yes, it's a new OEM coil that he just replaced.

I still would try another crank sensor if everything else checks out......if I remember correctly you said you had a slight voltage jump on your 5v supply after plugging in the CPS. This is generally the place you end up with a no start condition. Replaced with new crank sensor last night, same issue. Though the original tested 0 on the ohm sensor, the new one tested .04 ohms (or so), so thought it was the sensor as well.

The motor did have the original flex plate with the timing holes in it, correct? Yes, this is all original just pulled the motor+trans and put it in.

I assume that it's been verified that the dist is turning and the motor is in time?
Yes, been over this 4x to make sure.
Just trying to think outside the box.......
Thank you for your time!

With the replaced sensor same no start. Going to multi the voltages again at the panel to verify for the 5th time, will get back to this thread and update.
 

Last edited by cpm52; 06-25-2011 at 05:20 PM.
  #18  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:27 PM
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Everything looks good outside of no spark. Everything has been checked and re-checked.
 
  #19  
Old 06-25-2011, 11:33 PM
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You didn't happen to pull a relay out, did you?

For giggles, try swapping the ASD and/or ignition system relay with a different, similar but non essential one.
 

Last edited by aim4squirrels; 06-25-2011 at 11:50 PM.
  #20  
Old 06-25-2011, 11:49 PM
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Ran a multi-meter on the coil, 12.1v with key on, and 10v at start. Maybe not enough juice at the coil? Shot in the dark here....
 


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