I have been reading a lot of these forums for particular issues I have been experiencing, and it has been a great help. I recently bought this rig for a fishing and motorcycle hauling rig. It's a 99 Ram 1500 4x4. I have done a lot of preventative maintainence on the truck, but I am still finding a lot of problems.

So far I have replaced:

Hub bearing (clicking noise from the driver left)
Rear shocks
Oil change
Trans filter and fluid
Rear and transmission mounted speed sensors
Replaced Rad fluid

Even after replacing both of the speed sensors, I still have my ABS, ebrake, and check engine light on. The check engine light is for two codes, Vehicle Speed Sensor, and bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor. Even after replacing the VSS, I still don't have a speed reading on my cluster.

As for the o2 sensor, I know that clogged cats are a result of the blown plenum issue, but I have checked the TB open and do not see any oil pooled in there. Is there anywhere else I should check? I pulled off the b1s1 o2 sensor and it drove a bit better, but I only drove it through my neighborhood. The problem I have with it is that if I am at low RPMs, and step on the gas, it will lunge forward when it gets to the higher RPM range. I figure this is a symptom of the clogged cat, and I am willing to even get a new O2 sensor with a spark plug non-fouler (does anybody know what size I need?) and run straight pipe if necessary.

For the clicking sound I have, I was told that replacing the hub bearing would fix the issue, but it doesn't. While I had the hub bearing off, I noticed that the axle was very loose and the u-joints were in terrible condition, and probably is my source of the clicking sound. What am I looking at to replace and/or rebuild the front axles? The front has a solid axle (not sure if they came in IFS).

Other than the AC switching vents to blow at the winshield when I step on the gas, which I've read can be related to a vacuum hose issue (more RPM, more vacuum), it's been a roller coaster of replacing and finding new answers to the issues I'm experiencing.

 

Defiantly sounds like your Cat is F-ed. Keep in mind if you cut the cat off and go with a straight pipe you will NOT pass emission testing ever again (if you have it in your area)

How many miles are on your truck?

See here for some good info on the plenum: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...um-thread.html

"Magnet-on-a-stick test:
This test is to determine if your plenum has already been replaced (by previous owner). You will need a telescopic magnet (available at most tools/parts suppliers). Remove airhat assembly. Open the throttle plates and probe the bottom of the manifold with the magnet. If it sticks on the bottom, the plenum plate is OEM, if not, it has been replaced with an aluminum plate (which means it has already been fixed). Credit to Saber6 and dhvaughan for suggesting this."

Test to determine if your plenums already been replaced. If it hasn't, chances are its gone, even if you don't have oil pooling...They always go.

 

The "big power boost around 3K RPM when on the gas hard" is a sign of a blown plenum.

Blown plenum will munch up O2 sensors, and your cat. Doesn't really help fuel economy either.

Where did you get your sensors? If you went to vatozone..... you may have just gotten a bad one right off the shelf. I believe your truck reads vehicle speed from the rear diff sensor. Check the connections, make sure they are clean and tight, if those are good, replace the sensor. (again.)

if you have already done hub/bearings, doing front axle u-joints is cake. You can replace just the joints, and spend anywhere from 10, to 40 bucks each on 'em. This is a spot where I HIGHLY recommend springin' for the best quality parts you can afford. They are an exercise to get to.

 

I did indeed get the sensors from Advance Auto (think oreilys and autozone), but two bad sensors? I will pull the code again to see if the code disappeared, but the cluster is bad.

I've done ujoints on a driveshaft before, but never on the axles. Are you say that I will not need to re-build the whole axle, and only need to replace the u-joints and axle seal (it was going bad anyways). I have a full chest of snap-on tools so tools won't be an issue. Are you aware of any writeups on replacing the ujoints? I had a fun time finding a 1 11/16" socket for the axle nut

So even with no oil pooled at the TB while looking inside, I can still have a blown plenum? I saw the hughes kit which doesn't seem to bad price wise. The installation on the other hand will probably take me a day, so I want to make sure before I tear everything apart.

Also, I want to confirm that I should use 75-140w for the rear diff, 70-90w for the front diff, and atf+4 for the center transfer case?

 

Understood, and yes we do have emissions here. As bad as it sounds, I was going to replace the o2 sensor, and stick a spark plug non-fouler on there so it wouldn't throw a code and run straight pipe. I may get some flack for doing this, but this truck is my toy hauler and not my daily driver.

 

Axle U-joints are basically the same as doing a driveshaft. No big deal.

Axle SEALS though, are another matter entirely. To do the drives side seal, you need to pull the carrier.... which isn't any fun. Passenger side isn't as bad.... there are a couple threads about this, I highly recommend you find 'em, and read up on it. If the seals aren't leaking, don't replace 'em.

 

Does anybody know even with no oil pooled at the TB while looking inside, I can still have a blown plenum? I saw the hughes kit which doesn't seem to bad price wise. The installation on the other hand will probably take me a day, so I want to make sure before I tear everything apart.

 

Nothing wrong with doing the non-fouler trick to prevent the CEL, lotsa people do that, myself included , I don't have emmission testing here though.

The cats primary job is to reduce emmissions, Im not entirely sure how emmission testing works, but I think they hook a tester to your exhaust pipe....and if you get hooked up with no cat you'll never pass, which I think means you cant get insurance? again, not entirely sure.

 

Do any of these apply to you:

1. Excessive oil consumption
2. Heavy spark knock under load (sounds like a can of marbles when you have your foot in it)
3. Truck feels like it was castrated (loss of power)
4. Trouble getting up hills

how many miles on the truck?

Try the magnet test I mentioned in my earlier post to determine if its already been replaced.

 

In Texas, it's backwards. You have to have insurance before you can get an emissions check done.

Can you reference to me where you got the non-foulers at? I couldn't find the right size at my Advance Auto parts.