Thanks, Seabass and BigBird, for the measurements.

Terribleswiss, it's a unit from WGS Sourcing. We occasionally use them on Deutz diesels where I work as a customer option. We had an extra setup that was going to be pitched, so I managed to get it. It's basically a remote filter setup for industrial diesels, and has sufficiently large flow and return lines so it should be able to easily handle the oil volume for a small-block. The worst restriction in the system is the filter outlet on the adapter, which is no different from factory. Depending on the size filter I use, it will be adding a 1/2 to 3/4s of a quart of oil to the system. I haven't explored whether or not it will aid in oil cooling.

When I get it installed, I'll post a photo or two.

Thanks!
Dave

 

Hi all--

For those interested, I wanted to post a few photos of the installed remote oil filter setup that I had been working on.

Here are the links to the pics from my photobucket account:

http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...4/P1010005.jpg

http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...4/P1010006.jpg

http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...4/P1010010.jpg

http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...4/P1010009.jpg

http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...4/P1010012.jpg


The only item to complete yet is to make a bracket that will bolt from the oil filter adapter to a yet-undetermined rigid point on the motor or transmission. This would be to prevent the movement of the engine from working the adapter loose at any time in the future. The blue oil hoses you can see are more rigid than I would have liked them to be, and the possibility of the oil filter adapter loosening since the hoses are so stiff concerned me.

In case anyone asks (and you may be able to see it), the oil hoses are shielded from the exhaust, oil pan and engine crossmember by a piece of fire-resistant mine-duty electrical conduit that should last a quite a while. The filter is crazy-easy to get to now, but should still be protected from any potential damage. I used (3) 3/8"-24 bolts to secure the mounting bracket to the inside of the front frame crossmember.

For anyone wondering about oil pressure and capacity, I have not noticed any appreciable changes in oil pressure, though the motor did take probably (10) full seconds to fill the new system up with oil. (That was a very long and scary delay waiting for the motor to build oil pressure that first time!) Subsequent starts built oil pressure immediately at the same rate as prior to the install. I believe the full oil change will be approximately 5 1/2 quarts.

Thanks for the help I received from several folks!

Dave

 

Interesting, but I don't see the advantage of this setup. In your original post you stated you don't like hot oil dripping out and getting onto the engine block, yet with this setup there is still the chance of oil spilling out and hitting the frame. My first thoughts are to say not to change the oil when the engine is hot, and secondly that the filter setup should probably be mounted vertically rather than horizontally. Then again, it's your truck but these are just my observations.

 

+1 to that
One more good thing about mounting the filter vertically is that you can fill the new filter with oil so there are no dry starts after a oil change.

 

With respect to mounting the filter horizontally, I am following the lead of the Mopar 400s and 440s where the filters are mounted horizontally with no apparent detrimental effects. Even my 2002 Nissan Sentra has a horizontally mounted oil filter on the back side of the block. The instructions with the kit specified that the filter could be mounted any way that suited the application.

No oil will get on the front frame crossmember, it will drain straight down into a pan on the ground. No oil will get all over the sides of the filter when you're trying to remove it either, another plus. This setup will eliminate the mess I originally found to be an issue.

I've always been under the impression that draining the oil hot has the effect of getting more contaminates out of your oil system since they are better suspended in the oil after the engine has been run. This may be a myth, but I've heard it a number of times before.

I have to concede the point about a "dry" start. Then again, I've never filled any oil filter before screwing it on. Residual oil on the bearings should be adequate enough to protect them for the few seconds it takes for the pump to fill the filter and resume normal oil pressure. We're not talking gallons, here, but probably a third-to-half of a quart.

Oh well. To each his own...

Dave

 

Yes you can mount it anyway you want but why not mount it vertically? You would not even need a pan to change the filter all the oil will stay in the filter. Just wondering because I know lots of people that mounted them just like you did. Also I fill every filter I change its not hard to do and its extra protection you will have oil pressure as soon as you start the motor. Would you drive for just a few seconds with no oil pressure? I just think its good to do if you can. My dad says its not necessary just like you say. But still fills them when he can.

 

I've never added oil to a filter during a change. Perhaps I enjoy living life on the edge (sorta like those people who don't wear underwear).

 

Like I said my dad never filled filters for years and never had any problems. But a little bit of wear had there adds up to a lot a wear. I could be wrong and there might be enough oil left on everything in the motor to protect it but it just one of those things I do. And its free and can only help so why not.

 

What's going to wear? There is already a film on the bearings and other moving internals.