When I bought my truck the, ac compressor was seized up Clutch bent, no idea how that happen, and by passed, Ive never worked with ac. Can some one give my a detailed lay out of what i need, And what to look for. The hoses ect still look like its all there, here is the kit i bought.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

Take it somewhere to have the system evacuated, if necessary. (just push in on one of the schraeder valves a bit with screwdriver, and see if anything comes out..... if nothing comes out, it isn't a concern.....) Once you are SURE the system is empty, you will need to correct release tool for the hose fittings. You can get them at any auto parts store. The rest of it is just take off the old, bolt on the new...... not sure that you will be able to replace the orifice tube..... according to popular theory, they are not serviceable, and you have to replace the entire line. (I think someone else on here managed to change it out though......) Should be in the high pressure line, near the evaporator core.....

Once you have it all back together, take it to a shop where they can pull a vacuum, leak check it, and recharge the system..... Unless you have a vacuum pump handy......

 

Now Shadow_Death, for you and your adventure you certainly will want a new accumulator drier (any brand) and while you are in the airbox, I highly recommend a MOPAR heater core, Mopar evaporator, and a mopar ETS (evaporator temperature sensor) It is the labor that is huge and paying a little more for factory parts is highly desirable. We always replace a factory heater core when we go in to replace the evaporator or replace the evaporator when if we go in to change the heater core.

Another pro point is to get a seal kit for your year, make, and model. Four Seasons and others make a vehicle specific kit that has every seal and gasket. With these kits, you have a better chance of selecting the correct oring as there are only the ones you need. At the shop, we have tackle boxes with hundreds of diameter, durometer, and dimension orings. they all look the same but they are not perfect. Get the kit for your truck.

NylogBlue is an assembly lubricant that I bring to automotive from residential/commercial HVACR. it is a sealant/grease that is made from refrigerant oil, so no worries about contaminating the system. Great on orings, gaskets, schraders, etc.

ALWAYS make sure that you don't introduce air into the system. Not only is it non condensable at these pressures, it will cause higher head pressure. NEVER disconnect a fitting (hose) from a vacuumed system. Always break the vacuum before disconnecting. Be at least just a few psi over so stuff blows out and not be below ambient atmospheric pressure so stuff (air) doesn't gets sucked in. Purge all of your hoses (get the air out) Think before you do.
Think about when you are all done, and disconnecting the gauges. DO disconnect the high pressure gauge hose with the system off (less pressure) then shut off your refrigerant source (tank valve) and start the system and allow it to stabilize.... now open the blue valve and thus allowing the compressor to scavenge the remaining refrigerant from the blue hose, manifold, and the yellow hose (right up to the closed tank valve).... now if you open the disconnected red hoses' valve, the trucks compressor will scavenge the remaining refrigerant from that hose too. Less waste, less released into the environment, and not enough to over charge your system... Close all the valves and DO disconnect the low pressure fitting with the ac system running (lower pressure)

Now please, I am not trying to talk down to anyone and especially you Shadow_Death. I can tell that you seem to be squared away and planning your job, gathering supplies... BUT perhaps someone else may read this here and learn something that they didn't know.
Step one, evacuate the refrigerant and remove the steering column. Step two, remove the entire dash package to the windshield/firewall and put it into the reclined front seats...
Step three, IRAN (inspect, repair as needed)
** note the Dodge RAM is a 2016 and is being reassembled after evaporator, heater core, ETS, and some door work. If you look just above the white sticker you can see the old ETS lying atop of the airbox and just behind it you can see the newly replaced one. My 2004 is not quite like that and airbox must be removed to test or replace the ETS as it is remotely placed on the evaporator fins with a longer wire.

 

Where are you getting OEM heater cores for 2nd Gens?????

 

I was wondering the same thing, but didn't comment due to the age of the original post... To my knowledge, I've been unable to find any new MOPAR/OEM heater or A/C evaporator cores these days

 

We certainly do our best to acquire the very best components available to us as WE GAURANTEE and we also do not want to inconvenience our private clients.
OEM if we can and the very next best thing if we have to... We do have a ' hit or miss ' sheet from experiences. more in the managers head than a written list that I can share... It eats him up if we have "do overs" and therefore we get a lot of "do more's "

 

An impressive word salad....you should run as VEEP on an upcoming ticket!

So, I'm reading the answer is, you don't know?

 

Wallace CJDR and then Cold Air Distributors or Parts Authority