Misfire after tranny rebuild
Hi all. New to the forum and have seen some interesting threads/responses here so I thougth I'd jump in with a frustrating problem. I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 2X4, 5.9L, gas engine. Tranny was slipping in all gears so I did a complete rebuild. While the tranny was out, I pulled the Distributor to replace a leaking O ring. All went back together, fired her up and tranny shifts better than new. But after running her a bit and she warmed up, I picked up P301 misfire on my OBD II scanner. Distributor cap was corroded on a couple posts so I replaced cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Lost #1 misfire and picked up a #6 misfire. I've moved the Distributor around somewhat and still can't get rid of misfire. I moved wire and plug to #8 and still a #6 misfire. Moved injector to #8 and started to get P300, multiple misfire (#1, 3, and 6). She purrs like a kitten at idle, no codes. I pulled the timing chain cover and chain has some slack, but marks are alligned. After she warms up I get some serious lurching around 45 mph, no steady code. Smooths out as I accelerate to 60, then flashing Check Engine lite and lurching. Check engine lite will not stay on steady, no code to read but "Pending Code" comes up P300, 301, 303, and 306. I'm about at the end of my shade tree expertise; feel like I'm punching a tar baby. Any ideas of where to go from here? Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Scuba Sam; Jun 28, 2011 at 08:57 AM.
Might be as simple as the distributor fuel sync being off. Need a scan tool that can read the fuel sync, then twist the distributor and bolt it down to get to 0.
I replaced injectors on my truck with aftermarket 4 holes and had to set the sync to -2 as the new spray patten was too diffuse compared to the stock injectors. The charge was traveling up the intake runner and backfiring thru the TB.
Very tiny movements of the disty can = problems.
Might also be damage to the crank position sensor that reads the notches in the faceplate, very easy to damage when stabbing the transmission onto the motor. Usually, damage causes a flat no start, but it could have gotten nicked and effect base ignition timing.
I replaced injectors on my truck with aftermarket 4 holes and had to set the sync to -2 as the new spray patten was too diffuse compared to the stock injectors. The charge was traveling up the intake runner and backfiring thru the TB.
Very tiny movements of the disty can = problems.
Might also be damage to the crank position sensor that reads the notches in the faceplate, very easy to damage when stabbing the transmission onto the motor. Usually, damage causes a flat no start, but it could have gotten nicked and effect base ignition timing.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; Jun 28, 2011 at 09:03 AM.
Might be as simple as the distributor fuel sync being off. Need a scan tool that can read the fuel sync, then twist the distributor and bolt it down to get to 0.
I replaced injectors on my truck with aftermarket 4 holes and had to set the sync to -2 as the new spray patten was too diffuse compared to the stock injectors. The charge was traveling up the intake runner and backfiring thru the TB.
Very tiny movements of the disty can = problems.
Might also be damage to the crank position sensor that reads the notches in the faceplate, very easy to damage when stabbing the transmission onto the motor. Usually, damage causes a flat no start, but it could have gotten nicked and effect base ignition timing.
I replaced injectors on my truck with aftermarket 4 holes and had to set the sync to -2 as the new spray patten was too diffuse compared to the stock injectors. The charge was traveling up the intake runner and backfiring thru the TB.
Very tiny movements of the disty can = problems.
Might also be damage to the crank position sensor that reads the notches in the faceplate, very easy to damage when stabbing the transmission onto the motor. Usually, damage causes a flat no start, but it could have gotten nicked and effect base ignition timing.
I've also heard several folks around here say it is really easy to pinch a wire when putting the tranny back on. One more thing to check.
aim/Bama,
Thanks for the replies. I stabbed the tranny first then put in the crank sensor. Pinched same wire on a 95 Grand Cherokee once and learned my lesson then. All wires are free and clear. My OBD II scanner only gives an "Ign Adv DE" reading and I'm hitting a 3.5. Might need to play with the Distributor some more. Thanks again.
Thanks for the replies. I stabbed the tranny first then put in the crank sensor. Pinched same wire on a 95 Grand Cherokee once and learned my lesson then. All wires are free and clear. My OBD II scanner only gives an "Ign Adv DE" reading and I'm hitting a 3.5. Might need to play with the Distributor some more. Thanks again.
aim/Bama,
Thanks for the replies. I stabbed the tranny first then put in the crank sensor. Pinched same wire on a 95 Grand Cherokee once and learned my lesson then. All wires are free and clear. My OBD II scanner only gives an "Ign Adv DE" reading and I'm hitting a 3.5. Might need to play with the Distributor some more. Thanks again.
Thanks for the replies. I stabbed the tranny first then put in the crank sensor. Pinched same wire on a 95 Grand Cherokee once and learned my lesson then. All wires are free and clear. My OBD II scanner only gives an "Ign Adv DE" reading and I'm hitting a 3.5. Might need to play with the Distributor some more. Thanks again.
VW,
Correct, moving the distributor does nothing for the timing, but the distributor does tell the injectors when to fire. Seems if one goes off all would be but will do some more testing. Thanks for the reply.
Sam
Correct, moving the distributor does nothing for the timing, but the distributor does tell the injectors when to fire. Seems if one goes off all would be but will do some more testing. Thanks for the reply.
Sam
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The heck with the cat hey? Seems to me that as time goes by, you are gradually losing more and more power. I'd check it just to eliminate it from the fold.
Not to mention the flashing CEL.
Not to mention the flashing CEL.
Yeah, I agree with you Zman.







