won't start after plenum replacement 99 ram 1500 5.9l
#1
won't start after plenum replacement 99 ram 1500 5.9l
Need some help after replacing a plenum on 99 ram 1500 5.9l. 150K miles.
The truck ran fine, just used a lot of oil, 1 qt a week.
We used the Hughes Engine plenum kit, 180 thermostat. Pulled the intake, cleaned and replaced the plenum. Cleaned and vacuumed the oil galley, a real mess of oily crap and chunks of oil.
We did not remove the fuel rail, so we cleaned the bottoms of the injectors in the intake with throttle body cleaner. Also removed and cleaned the Air Temp Sensor.
Removed the Throttle body, cleaned thoroughly, including Map sensor line, Idle air control motor and check throttle position sensor.
Reassembled and started the engine.
It ran for 30 seconds, and then started to act up. Idled rough, then rougher, tried to give it a little gas. (no go) then it just died. (Seemed to be starving for gas, or spark)
Will not start at all now.
-- Checked Fuel Rail, getting pressure at rail. (will not start)
-- Checked each spark plug, getting sparks at each plug. (will not start)
-- Replaced Spark plugs, gapped at .040. (will not start, but cranking on 3-4 cylinders, no fire though)
-- Remove all plugs, blew out each cylinder with compressed air, also cranked engine to cycle pistons. (not a lot of dirt or moisture. Pistons tops look dirty, oily)
-- tried starting fluid in intake and each cylinder. (will not start)
-- Disconnected the battery to recharge it. (also hoping the computer settings reset.) We run the battery down, cranking it, so frequently recharging it.
-- Replaced Distributor Cap, rotor, coil, wiring harness. (puff blue smoke, only hits on 3-4 cylinders, no start)
We assumed that a bunch of oil, degreaser, etc, made its way to each cylinder, so it just needs time to blow it out???
-- Put original spark plugs back in, gapped at .040. (Almost starts, but only if you floor it. then you get 2-3 cylinders trying to start. cylinders 1 -2 are cleanest, 7 & 8 the dirtiest, same as the spark plugs) -- Put the new spark plugs in, at .040 and leaving them.
Could someone shed some light on where to go next?
-- the plan is recharging the battery, I understand the idle goes crazy if you don't have at least 10v.
-- could changing the plenum and cleaning cause all the computer settings
to go crazy??
-- should we remove the fuel injectors to really clean them.
-- replacing distributor cap, etc (Tried it, not firing yet)
Let us know,
thanks,
Kevin
The truck ran fine, just used a lot of oil, 1 qt a week.
We used the Hughes Engine plenum kit, 180 thermostat. Pulled the intake, cleaned and replaced the plenum. Cleaned and vacuumed the oil galley, a real mess of oily crap and chunks of oil.
We did not remove the fuel rail, so we cleaned the bottoms of the injectors in the intake with throttle body cleaner. Also removed and cleaned the Air Temp Sensor.
Removed the Throttle body, cleaned thoroughly, including Map sensor line, Idle air control motor and check throttle position sensor.
Reassembled and started the engine.
It ran for 30 seconds, and then started to act up. Idled rough, then rougher, tried to give it a little gas. (no go) then it just died. (Seemed to be starving for gas, or spark)
Will not start at all now.
-- Checked Fuel Rail, getting pressure at rail. (will not start)
-- Checked each spark plug, getting sparks at each plug. (will not start)
-- Replaced Spark plugs, gapped at .040. (will not start, but cranking on 3-4 cylinders, no fire though)
-- Remove all plugs, blew out each cylinder with compressed air, also cranked engine to cycle pistons. (not a lot of dirt or moisture. Pistons tops look dirty, oily)
-- tried starting fluid in intake and each cylinder. (will not start)
-- Disconnected the battery to recharge it. (also hoping the computer settings reset.) We run the battery down, cranking it, so frequently recharging it.
-- Replaced Distributor Cap, rotor, coil, wiring harness. (puff blue smoke, only hits on 3-4 cylinders, no start)
We assumed that a bunch of oil, degreaser, etc, made its way to each cylinder, so it just needs time to blow it out???
-- Put original spark plugs back in, gapped at .040. (Almost starts, but only if you floor it. then you get 2-3 cylinders trying to start. cylinders 1 -2 are cleanest, 7 & 8 the dirtiest, same as the spark plugs) -- Put the new spark plugs in, at .040 and leaving them.
Could someone shed some light on where to go next?
-- the plan is recharging the battery, I understand the idle goes crazy if you don't have at least 10v.
-- could changing the plenum and cleaning cause all the computer settings
to go crazy??
-- should we remove the fuel injectors to really clean them.
-- replacing distributor cap, etc (Tried it, not firing yet)
Let us know,
thanks,
Kevin
Last edited by ram1500kevin; 07-10-2011 at 09:01 AM.
#2
Make sure the ground wires running along the driver side of the intake manifold, are connected to the stud/bolt of the upper power steering bracket. Also,make sure the ground wires on the back passenger side of the head and valve cover are connected to the firewall. As well as the ground wire by the pcm.
#7
Round 7 - removed distributor cap, made sure new one working. All getting sparks. Removed spark plugs, #8 fouled, full of oily crap. Found one loose ground, left rear of head, tightened. (been loose from day one, was picking up ground from exhaust manifold it melted to.) Tried to start, got 6 cylinders, with starter full cranking, run, stall, run, stall, each cycle. managed to heat up the exhaust manifold. Disconnected battery, reset PCM timing. Recharging. disconnected and reconnected every connector. switched ASD relay with horn, doublechecked all fuses. Will let you know round 8 after battery charged.
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#8
are you certain you didn't move the dizzy? This sure sounds like fuel delivery.. and you ain't gettin' none! That dizzy being moved just a little is enough to whack the fuel sync to absolute hopelessness..
but: it stands to reason, even with the sync whacked out that you would get a build up of fuel in the cylinder that would create at least a cough when fire hits it.. it wouldn't run, but it would cough every so often (or even backfire through the tb which is always exciting).. so- that lends suspicion that the fuel isn't making it to the injectors.
how did you check pressure at the rail? Did you remove your gas cap to relieve pressure before pulling the gas line? did you replace it?
Can you smell gas when you are attempting to turn it over?
but: it stands to reason, even with the sync whacked out that you would get a build up of fuel in the cylinder that would create at least a cough when fire hits it.. it wouldn't run, but it would cough every so often (or even backfire through the tb which is always exciting).. so- that lends suspicion that the fuel isn't making it to the injectors.
how did you check pressure at the rail? Did you remove your gas cap to relieve pressure before pulling the gas line? did you replace it?
Can you smell gas when you are attempting to turn it over?