Checked again. Fluid is full. Some coming out of vent on pump plate. TC housing and underside well coated.

 

Band in the pan may be too tight, accumulator piston may not be able to engage band, if what master tech told me is correct. Did you use the FSM procedure to adjust the bands, or the one in that thread that I had running?

I believe when I readjusted the bands, I let the accumulator arm travel approximately half of its full travel amount and called it good. Watched the apply lever (not the arm coming of the accumulator, but the lever that arm actuates) when adjusting and did what seemed right.

Also, try letting it idle in each gear for a minute to chase out any air in the VB passages before you check the fluid level in neutral. Its probably already out, but it doesn't hurt to be sure.

If you have a scanner that can read the governor pressure, (SCT and super chips can't do this, BTW) lock out OD and get on a flat road into 3rd
gear and check pressure while applying just enough throttle to maintain speed. Governor pressure should be 1 PSI per 1 MPH. If its off, the pressure adjustment screw needs to be moved a bit. I can't recall the correct sized allen wrench, but I know you can cut the wrench down to a small nub on the short length and adjust the pressure without dropping the VB.

If you have a clean pan lying around you can reclaim the ATF, I slid the pan in a big garbage bag after I pulled the pan the second time I had to go back in to fix the solenoid to keep dirt out of the ATF.

How tight did you torque down the VB mounting bolts? I remember Wayne at APS told me the torque on those is only 100 in/lbs and that over doing it could cause odd issues as well.

 

I don't have a scanner that will read the pressure. I did see the thread you mentioned. I am letting it cool down and wil check the kickdown band adjustment. I may wait until one day next week as I have purchased a deep pan. I installed a drain on the original pan and have clean containers to capture the fluid to reuse it. When I replace the pan, I will double check the rear band. I'm thinking of going ahead and replaceing the governor solenoid and sensor as well to be sure. (I am also ordering a scanner either this weekend or Monday if I can decide which one to get. What would read the pressure? I was lookig through the manual and all they refer to is gauges on several ports on the case - and I don't have any gauges that would do this.

I drove it quite a bit through all gears, so I am pretty sure any air has had the opportunity to flush out.

 

A scanner that can read tranny/solenoid pressures is going to be rather expensive.

 

Got a laptop? If so, just download some free software, and buy a cable that will work with it. You can configure it to show, and log.... any data you like. Awesome troubleshooting tool.

 

Got milk? uhh, I mean links?

 

I added a bit to that post above, but you can get a snap on scanner MT-25xx for a decent price on ebay these days. Make sure you get one that has the appropriate domestic cartridges for your model year, and you may need the 13a key for your truck. Some work with the 13 key, some need the 13a key, but the keys are only $20 new on the snap on website.

 

Multiple laptops - so I can surf in the RV, in the garage, or on the road. I ordered a cable and expect it any day. Where would be a good place to find the free softaware that would work. I tried researching this the other day, but was more confused than when I started.

 

I too, would be interested in those links. Perhaps start a thread that the noobs won't search for, like "links to laptop software and OBDII cables for diagnosis." Enough big and specific words there to let even the lame DF search engine hone in on.

 

PCMScan. (100 bucks for a license.... )

This one..... (free)

a google search will turn up more of them.... (I want a laptop, so I can actually try out some of these, and have a REAL recommendation....)

Cables are also findable on a google search. Some of the software requires specific cabling, others will work with darn near anything.