something is wrong with that TPS percentage. That's a bad sensor, bad wiring, or binding of the throttle somehow. you've got to get that fixed, the PCM won't just ignore that discrepancy. Mine reads 0% at idle and 97% at WOT.

Try to pull the TPS off and put it back on with the white triangular tabs of the TPS on the opposite side of the plate they fit around and see what happens.

 

I'll try that now it alwas read that way and I never really though much of it but I never did understand y it read like that

 

Well there went another sensor these things are really starting to **** me off I tried to adjust it like you said aim4 and now no matter what I do it reads 100% and throws a TPS code I tried to unplug the sensor and reset the computer and it does the same thing

 

I think you've got a short somewhere in the TPS wiring that's eating them up. When you put it on, don't force it, just be sure it's lined up correctly. both those little tabs should be pushed by that blade in the throttle body. at closed idle, the blade should be east-west almost completely parallel with the ground (how parallel depends on the set screw, don't mess with it and try to get it perfectly east-west, your throttle blades will have a very slight tip in). At WOT it should be north-south.

 

That's exactly how it is it reads 100% throttle eventual it's unplugged yet when it read 13 at idle and 72 at WOTtge voltage reading was fine if there is a short somewhere wouldn't a fuse be blown as well?

 

Aside from what I posted earlier (i think that was in this thread..... straight out of the manual.....), there isn't anything else. Gotta have the scanner, or some way of reading that particular bit of data.

Wonder if the scan gauge would get it?

 

Alright ill have to see if I can borrow one from work cause like I said I really don't want to drive the truck far. I really hope that the fuel sync fixes the problem I'm having

 

Hey aim4 since you have already done this, do you hook the scanner up to the obd2 port under the dash or what?

 

Yep, some scanners need more power than the OBDII port provides, so there may be a plug to the cigar lighter.

For some data, the key just needs to be in the on position. For checking fuel sync, the engine has to be running. On my snap on, it's a special test mode called set sync signal. It automatically raises the idle to 1000 RPMs to get rid of valve train slop and give you a clearer read on the signal. Don't be alarmed if the numbers bounce around in a 3-4 number swing like 0 to 3 or -8 to -5. Just take the median and call it good.

You'll see negative and positive numbers. Try to get it to zero, that is how it's supposed to be from the factory, and it'll eliminate other variables you don't want to introduce.

You can turn the disty while the engine is running, or you can turn it off, move the disty, and check again. I prefer this way, as there is a heck of a lot of voltage running through the distributor, and I just feel it's safer. I have moved it before while running though, so it should be safe to do. Just loosen the disty clamp hold down bolt enough to move the disty with firm pressure. Too loose and it can slip after you've adjusted it. When you get it where you want it, don't forget to tighten the clamp back down.

They make special wrenches for distributor clamps, and they are worth every penny. You need a 1/2 inch wrench. Most any parts store should have them. They have a 90* bend with about 4 inches of reach on each side. Mine has a provision to attach a ratchet, but I only snug down the disty bolt hand tight. The bolt is only supposed to be snugged down about 100 inch/lbs.

 

My friend has a pretty advanced craftsman scanner I can try it can't hurt