picking up my new engine, have some questions
picking up my new engine, have some questions
hey guys, im picking up my new engine next weekend.
its 99 5.9 with 205k on it. my plans are to tear it down and check the heads, and replace parts as needed.
what should i look into? i already have the hughes plenum kit, but i may get the airgap come tax time.
its gonna be awhile til i drop the motor in, cause i still gotta save up for a tuner from hemifever.
so again, what would you all look into, and replace as neccessary?
cant wait to get this done!
its 99 5.9 with 205k on it. my plans are to tear it down and check the heads, and replace parts as needed.
what should i look into? i already have the hughes plenum kit, but i may get the airgap come tax time.
its gonna be awhile til i drop the motor in, cause i still gotta save up for a tuner from hemifever.
so again, what would you all look into, and replace as neccessary?
cant wait to get this done!
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,465
Likes: 4,220
From: Clayton MI
Everything. 
With that many miles on it, a rebuild is a good plan. Just make sure all the parts you want to re-use are still within spec. I think those are all listed in the service manual. (things like journal size, various bore diameters, etc, etc, etc.....)
Heads like to crack between valve seats. With that many miles, I would be surprised if they DIDN'T have cracks.... my take on that is, don't spend any money on the stock heads, just replace them with better units. There are some low-buck options out there that are vastly superior to the stockers.
things I would replace:
Heads. (for reasons mentioned above.)
Cam.
All bearings.
All gaskets. (naturally)
All freeze plugs.
Oil pump.
Pistons if you have to, just the rings if you can just hone the cylinders nice.
Any other parts that you even remotely suspect of being 'too worn'.
Don't skimp on the machine work either.
With that many miles on it, a rebuild is a good plan. Just make sure all the parts you want to re-use are still within spec. I think those are all listed in the service manual. (things like journal size, various bore diameters, etc, etc, etc.....)
Heads like to crack between valve seats. With that many miles, I would be surprised if they DIDN'T have cracks.... my take on that is, don't spend any money on the stock heads, just replace them with better units. There are some low-buck options out there that are vastly superior to the stockers.
things I would replace:
Heads. (for reasons mentioned above.)
Cam.
All bearings.
All gaskets. (naturally)
All freeze plugs.
Oil pump.
Pistons if you have to, just the rings if you can just hone the cylinders nice.
Any other parts that you even remotely suspect of being 'too worn'.
Don't skimp on the machine work either.
Everything.
With that many miles on it, a rebuild is a good plan. Just make sure all the parts you want to re-use are still within spec. I think those are all listed in the service manual. (things like journal size, various bore diameters, etc, etc, etc.....)
Heads like to crack between valve seats. With that many miles, I would be surprised if they DIDN'T have cracks.... my take on that is, don't spend any money on the stock heads, just replace them with better units. There are some low-buck options out there that are vastly superior to the stockers.
things I would replace:
Heads. (for reasons mentioned above.)
Cam.
All bearings.
All gaskets. (naturally)
All freeze plugs.
Oil pump.
Pistons if you have to, just the rings if you can just hone the cylinders nice.
Any other parts that you even remotely suspect of being 'too worn'.
Don't skimp on the machine work either.
With that many miles on it, a rebuild is a good plan. Just make sure all the parts you want to re-use are still within spec. I think those are all listed in the service manual. (things like journal size, various bore diameters, etc, etc, etc.....)
Heads like to crack between valve seats. With that many miles, I would be surprised if they DIDN'T have cracks.... my take on that is, don't spend any money on the stock heads, just replace them with better units. There are some low-buck options out there that are vastly superior to the stockers.
things I would replace:
Heads. (for reasons mentioned above.)
Cam.
All bearings.
All gaskets. (naturally)
All freeze plugs.
Oil pump.
Pistons if you have to, just the rings if you can just hone the cylinders nice.
Any other parts that you even remotely suspect of being 'too worn'.
Don't skimp on the machine work either.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,465
Likes: 4,220
From: Clayton MI
Summit will have everything you ever wanted, and more. If you can find a local supplier though, I always advocate that first.... Unless you can get a better price (and don't forget about shipping) or better quality parts.
If you can find a local supplier though, I always advocate that first.... Unless you can get a better price (and don't forget about shipping) or better quality parts.
im going to be going with comp cams 20-746-9 cam, would it be better to go with the regular eq's or the eq monsters? the regular eq's are good for .515" lift and the monsters are good for .600" lift. the cam has a .506" max lift.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,465
Likes: 4,220
From: Clayton MI
I would stick with the regular heads, but, when you order them, see if you can upgrade the valves. .009" is a bit less margin for error than I like to have.
