1994 1500 EGR Replacement
#1
1994 1500 EGR Replacement
Hi,
I have a 1994 Ram 1500 5.2L Magnum which has the "check engine" light on almost all the time now. It seemed to start when I was climbing a really steep hill, but that could be coincidence. Anyway, I checked the error code and found that it is complaining consitantly about the EGR system.
After doing some research I have concluded that this is mostly just a system so that it is legal in California. I am not really that concerned seeing as I live in Alberta, which is one of the more laxed provinces for mechanical requirments.
I am still confused as too its purpose and whether or not it is worth purchasing and installing a new one. I have heard that having this system working can lead to improved fuel economy, but then I read some other posts where people have said that not having one at all made little difference.
Apon doing some research I have found that a replacement valve is between $70 to $90. Since I am a high mileage drive even if a replacement adds a small boost to economy, it is worth the cost.
If anyone can provide me with any information as too what the EGR does, replacement, or even just how to "trick" the computer into thinking it is working it would help.
Thanks
I have a 1994 Ram 1500 5.2L Magnum which has the "check engine" light on almost all the time now. It seemed to start when I was climbing a really steep hill, but that could be coincidence. Anyway, I checked the error code and found that it is complaining consitantly about the EGR system.
After doing some research I have concluded that this is mostly just a system so that it is legal in California. I am not really that concerned seeing as I live in Alberta, which is one of the more laxed provinces for mechanical requirments.
I am still confused as too its purpose and whether or not it is worth purchasing and installing a new one. I have heard that having this system working can lead to improved fuel economy, but then I read some other posts where people have said that not having one at all made little difference.
Apon doing some research I have found that a replacement valve is between $70 to $90. Since I am a high mileage drive even if a replacement adds a small boost to economy, it is worth the cost.
If anyone can provide me with any information as too what the EGR does, replacement, or even just how to "trick" the computer into thinking it is working it would help.
Thanks
#2
Usually you can clean the egr valve passages, usually and it'll work for a little while. Basically all it does is take exhaust and send it back through the intake again to be burnt again to reduce emissions. I don't think removing it will help much with anything, I would just try and clean the passages. Every car that Iv'e had you could just clean the build up out of the valve and it would work again. If this won't work on our trucks someone please let me know because I haven't done it on my truck yet so can't say for sure.
#3
Pull the doghouse and see if it isn't just a broken vacuum line before you spend any money.
EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is designed to control combustion chamber temps, to reduce NOx emissions. If you DON'T have it working, you might end up with some spark knock, as the computer assumes.... that it is working correctly if no codes are present. I am not sure just how it decides when it "isn't" working as it expects.
EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is designed to control combustion chamber temps, to reduce NOx emissions. If you DON'T have it working, you might end up with some spark knock, as the computer assumes.... that it is working correctly if no codes are present. I am not sure just how it decides when it "isn't" working as it expects.
#5
Update: I took it in to get an opil change, in the process we found that a rebreather was basically cloughed so we replaced it ($20). The check engine light is still there but I am going to try disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes on the weekend and seeing if a computer reset will fix it.
#7
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#8
Not really. Might give ya a bit more spark know than usual though. The PCM on these trucks doesn't have a knock sensor, so, it runs timing off tables, and varies it by conditions it IS aware of. If it thinks the EGR system is there, and working right, it will dial in a bit more spark advance, since it can get away with it WITH the EGR. If the system is disabled, and the PCM hasn't figgered it out yet, you run into the possibility of knock. The PCM doesn't know it's happening, so, does nothing about it.
Best way to get rid of EGR, is have it programmed out of the PCM, and then eliminate the various plumbing on the engine.
Best way to get rid of EGR, is have it programmed out of the PCM, and then eliminate the various plumbing on the engine.