Nope it's the same exact craptastic plastic they made everything else out of. It deteriorated in the baking sun the same way the top panel did just hasn't shattered due to the lack of direct sun since it doesn't sit flat.

Like I say it's the panel that all the other things like the black trim bezel, radio, a/c switches, passenger airbag override switch, instrument cluster, passenger airbag, headlight switch, upholder unit, glove box, basically everything on the front of the dash attaches to this particular piece of paneling. I wish it was metal though.

 

I'm seriously considering making a new piece using the old one to create a mold out of fiberglass and using metal inserts in all the places that a screw goes directly in to this panel. would I be ahead doing it this way time wise? In the short run, No... in the long run, Yes. Cause then my dash would be made of something much better than plastic. money wise I'm pretty sure I could do this for well under the $800 or $900 the dealer is asking, so Yes and Yes to the money part. I'll have to research and shop for supplies a bit more first to see the bang for my buck.

I'd love to be able to do both pieces out of fiberglass but the places where it connects to the defroster vents seem like they would be very hard to correctly place a metal insert as I've described doing with the other panel piece.

 

Ok so I'm in the process of saving up the money to purchase the bezel and dash pad from LMC Trucks. I've been pondering what I might be able to do in order to strengthen these flimsy plastic parts. Previously I was considering making up a mold for the different pieces that are breaking and making them out of fiberglass. I have been watching tutorial after tutorial video on the subject of molding and laying up parts out of fiberglass. Studying them to learn correct procedures for accomplishing this task.

Today however, as I was driving my truck, I had an idea that seems to me that it would work a whole lot better as well as easier and at the same time be even more afordable as well as make things plenty strong. The thought occurred to me as I was seeing a piece of the dash that has broken in half bouncing next to the piece it broke off of.

Why not simply pull the dash out and disassemble it which needs to be done anyway in order to replace things properly. Then with the cracked pieces glue them back together with super glue and then reinforce them with a layer or two of fiberglass possibly carbon fibre making sure not to cover my screw holes by leaving a screw in them and poking a hole in the fabric as I'm applying the resin in order to slide the cloth over the screws then when the resin begins to get rubbery trim around the other holes that the clips pop into so they are left exposed as well.

Do that to both sides of the lower/front dash panel that you can't see because all of the stuff that's attached to it. Then apply the same type of treatment to the inside of the dash pad and bezel piece. Trim the excess material and then bolt everything back into place. Essentially just reinforcing the plastic with either fiberglass or carbon fiber.

The main thing that I'd like to ask however if anybody has any experience with this type of lamination is:

What kind of trouble if any will I run into using fiberglass or carbon fiber directly on this type of plastic?

I understand that these resins can be harsh chemicals that gloves are required as you're working with them but are they harsh enough that they would meltdown these plastic pieces?

On the dash pad as well as the black front bezel piece I was planning to coat the pretty side of them that shows when installed with some part all so that none of the resin can stick to the side that can be seen. Then simply apply fiberglass or carbon fiber to the inner side of these pieces then clean off the part all and bolt it all together.

Hopefully I have been clear enough with what I'm thinking that someone who has experience whith composite laminations will be able to understand and be able to say yes this will work if you use...(enter various types of materials names)...

And of course once I get the money for the panels that I need replacements for as well as the time to pull it all apart and do this upgrade I will absolutely document it with lots of pictures... I may have to email the pics to one of you guys and then let you upload them but that's only because I don't know how to upload them myself.

Any advice on this idea of fiberglass/carbon fiber reinforcement idea folks?

 

I've been pondering the exact same question. I was told the fiberglass would crack too. But ill be keeping an eye on this thread...

 

My response to that statement would be why would it crack? After all auto manufacturers have been making full bodies out of fiberglass for years without them cracking. Hmmm anyone ever hear of a corvette? That doesn't make sense to me. Think I'd need more of an explanation about that one. Not trying to stir anything up. Just sayin I've seen numerous cars older than I am that are fiberglass and no cracks. Not to mention all the fiberglass boat hulls that the rest of the boat is gone but the hull is in perfect shape with the exception of needing a serious paint job! So I can't see why it would crack. If someone can explain that one I'd be very curious to hear the proper reason. Keep in mind I'm planning to use woven fiberglass fabric or else woven carbon fiber not stranded material. I might could see the strand stuff cracking.

I'm really curious though as to wether or not the fiberglass will adhere to the plastic or not of course I know it would have to be scuffed to give it something to bite into. But the biggest obstacle is wether or not the chemicals involved will melt the plastic that is being wrapped with fiberglass. Any body shop guys out there care to comment and shed some light on the way this thread has changed course?

 

Original dash was thin ABS plastic, that seemed to have missed any UV protectent additives....

Boats and car bodies made of fiberglass are either reinforced with some other material, or, are rather thick.......

New dashes from the aftermarket are better quality plastic, and actually UV resistant..... not to mention a bit thicker.......

If the plastic is prepped well, fiberglass will stick to it just fine. Roughing the surface to give it something to grip would be a good idea.

 

HeyYou, thank you for your comment. Yes sir I do realize that fiberglass boats as well as car bodies are reinforced in high stress areas as well as being engineered to a specific thickness. Was just using them as an example that Endisnear could use if someone ever tells him Fiberglass goes to cracking on it's own. I've heard a lot of really dumb knee jerk reactions to ideas that people presented in front of that one certain person (we all have at least one of those know it all nay sayers in our life lol) and was given a quick answer "that won't work." (knee jerk responses like that drive me nuts) Yet they couldn't provide any evidence for why it wouldn't work and then after the idea was a reality it worked flawlessly. That's why I posed that question to the forum. "if it won't work, why not? Edjumacate us!" haha I have no issue with being wrong I just want to understand why I'm wrong because through that knowledge I have often found a way to get the desired results. Knowledge truly is power.

I had read that the LMC Trucks pieces were made of a higher grade of ABS Plastic with some UV protectant in the piece.

If I'm not mistaken there is 2 basic/common types of fiberglass resin, EPOXY RESIN and URETHANE RESIN.

1) Is that an accurate statement?

2) If so, would one be better for use on ABS Plastic than the other?

I'm seriously considering using Carbon Fiber instead of fiberglass. Simply because it is my understanding that one good layer of carbon is better than a few layers of fiberglass. And if I'm not mistaken they use the same types of resin with carbon fiber and it is layed up in the same exact manner as fiberglass. It's basic differences being color, strength, weight. Carbon of course being the champ in all categories listed.

Which ever material I finally choose I will of course be adding extra material in key areas such as around the plastic studs(for lack of a better description) where the dash pad meets the defrost vents. (I have it in my head how to do what I'm saying with reinforcing those studs just not sure how to make it make sense in writing)

3) As far as roughing up the plastic for better adhesion goes. How coarse of sandpaper should I use? I have plenty of 80 as well as 100 grit paper I guess what I'm trying to ask is: Is there such a thing as making the surface too rough?

And yes I do know not to get to heavy handed with the sanding block as well as to not use a power sander on something like this. Besides it's small enough of a job that hand sanding won't take long at all. Even with all the corners.

 

Basic info on Resins. Basically, the epoxy resin is stronger, less brittle, but, a bit more difficult to work with. (two part) Epoxy seems like the way to go here.

Carbon fiber would not be such a bad plan. (bullet proof dash? )

80 grit should work just fine. I am a fan of having some fairly deep (as these things go) etchings for the resin to adhere to.

 

Is mit me, or would fiberglass look like crap? You would have to paint it, and every painted interior I have seen looks tacky.

 

If done well..... there are gel-coats you can put on 'em, that look really good. (and of course, are basically frictionless... so, anything you put on the dash likes to slide out open windows on corners.....)

Or, if carbon fiber is used.... and surface can be wet sanded/buffed, and looks pretty cool.