289 dollars for an ACTUAL dashboard with a lifetime warranty:
http://www.sandkindustries.com/DASH.html
Not a pad, not a cover, a direct replacement! I am getting that one.

 

LMC Trucks the link I listed several pages back is selling a direct replacement Dash pad not Cover. It's $199.00 they call it a pad but they are not thinking of it the same way you are. It is the actual dashboard call them and ask as I did if you don't believe me. Its the same thing you'd get from the OEM Only better. Again folks this $200.00 piece is the actual dashboard as all of us refer to it LMC calls it the dash pad. In other words in LMC Truck terms DASHBOARD=DASH PAD!!! Save the money. Or not it's your choice. If you doubt I'm correct keep browsing their catalog and you will find there dash covers as well they have a lower price and a totally different description and if you still don't believe then give them a call. I just hate seeing people spend unnecessary money. So you choose spend that extra money or not it's up to you. Oh yeah I almost forgot the dash you linked us to doesn't mention the rubber strips at each end of the dash. They go between the dash and the a-pillar trim pieces. Oh and also for that $89 dollar savings it also comes in the correct colors from LMC Trucks. I.E. No rattle can paint jobs on that new dash as described in the link you gave. Never seen a home painted dash that I liked either as others have mentioned.

Guys before anyone accuses me of workin for LMC TRUCKS... I work for that Duck on TV ya know the one that pays cash to the hurt and sick folks. The one always screamin AFLAC! I was for years in the parts industry and so I do know how to do a proper parts comparison and analysis. That's something you learn as you work your way into management with NAPA especially when you work for an unforgiving boss like I had. I am ASE Certified as a parts Technician. It's just the parts business became too boring for me. So I moved on!

 

The piece of paneling that I'm planning to laminate both sides of, is behind all of the stuff like the black bezel, instrument cluster, glove box, various swithes and controls, cupholders, passenger airbag, etc., etc. It is not seen so I'm not worried as to what the fiberglass will look like.

As for the dash pad/dashboard (which ever description makes you warm and fuzzy) I am only planning to cover the top side/pretty/visible side of it with partall in order to keep any resin or fiber glass material from adhering to that side and messing up the finish. Partall and i maybe spelling it wrong but i dont think I am is simply a chemical that is used typically in the fiberglass molding process it is applied to the mold after the mold has been thoroughly waxed. So you have your mold, several layers of Wax, several layers of partall and then you start putting in the materials that you will make your parts with. The partall does not allow the new fiberglass piece you are molding to stick to, and become one with, the mold. Thus it's name/nickname "Partall"! Once I'm done the partall will come off with just a rag and some fresh water. Ez pezee nice an breezy! Pretty cool stuff resin doesn't effect it but water makes it melt like butter on the sidewalk in the middle of the Sahara!

The under side of the dashboard/dash pad is what is going to get the fiberglass or carbon fiber treatment (AGAIN IM NOT FIBERGLASSING OR CARBON FIBERING BOTH SIDES ONLY THE UNSEEN SIDE HERE!) The same goes for the Black Bezel that goes around the front of the drivers area of the dash. All fiberglass or carbon fiber which ever I decide to go with will be hidden inside the dash. Are we all on the same page now?

 

The hidden subframe or whatever its called is what I need fixed as well. That's actually the only thing I need to fix.

 

Is yours like mine cracked in a few spots and broken in a few more? Cause I really think disassembling it and covering the front and backside of the (Hidden Subframe Panel) (I like that description of it I'm gonna call it that from now on) I really believe super gluing the cracks and breaks back together when there is no longer stress on the part is the best way to get it to the point where it can be reinforced with a few layers of fiberglass on both sides of it. Of course being careful not to loose track of the important holes that have screws or clips going thru them. Which is simple enough just leave a screw in each screw hole and then before the fiberglass cures trim the holes that have clips that are supposed to go through them. Wish I was lucky like you and that was my only issue though. I'm so jealous!!!! Hahahahaha Soooo Jealous!!!!

 

Regarding the questions about whether fiberglass would adhere to the plastic on Ram dash.....Yes.

My pass side A Pillar was broken. I superglued the pices back and let it cure. Next day, I used the epoxy fiberglass resin and two laters of fiberglass cloth on the back side. Sand as previously mentioned to clean and remove the slick surface.

No one else but me knows it was repaired. I used 400 sandpapre at the glue joint on the front to remove excess glue, but for dash cap, that would not be necessary.

As soon as I finish mechanical work on truck and begin body work, i will be replacing dash as well when I rework interior.

Hope this helps. Fiberglass is messy, but if applied correctly, works wonders. AZ sells a kit with cloth resin, and hardener pretty reasonably. Othter parts stores probably hae same product. (I keep some on the shelf -had to repair gas tank on mower yesterday!)

 

Yes mines cracked all over and pretty much 75% of the screw holes are broken completley so my A/C controls and headlight switch just flop around being held in by 1 or less screws lol. I was thinking of getting a junkyard replacement and doing the fiberglass thing and putting it all back together. And I guess I should rephrase. The subframe is the only thing im worried about replacing right now lol. My upper dash is a replacement. But the lower part of my dash is showing some sad signs...

 

Ah yes @Endisnear you may be able if you still have all the broken pieces of the lower dash/craptastic plastic Subframe what ever it's actually called you may be able to fix the whole thing by taking it apart supergluing everything back together and building up the areas where it sounds like your screw holes are broken/stripped with fiberglass. Last time I went hunting in a junk yard for these pieces every dash I found was in worse condition than mine due to the accidents that landed the truck there. And that was several different junkyards of course that also was a while back so I might have better luck if I tried again.

@ Gdstock thanks for the comment my biggest concern was wether or not resin would melt the plastic and I'd come out to a puddle of mush the next morning after letting it cure over night... Good to know you've had success using epoxy resin on the a-pillar trim. NAPA sells a small fiberglass kit as well but for what I'm doing I may need to purchase the materials from like a fiberglass supply company due to the amount of fiberglass I need or will I go with carbon fiber instead? hmmmmmmm there's a company called Fibre Glast that I came across online that seems to have really good pricing. Plus they indicate that they will help anyway possible in picking out the correct materials to help with any type of project think I may give them a call next week to find out what weight of material as well as the specific resin and hardener would be best for doing fiberglass as well as the same scenario with carbon fiber price it out I'm sure they'll be able to recommend how many layers I'd need doing it either way I choose to go. (Glass VS. Carbon) along with the proper quantities of resin I'd need to get the job done without having a ton of left over resin and hardener. Not concerned about excess fabric but I would be about excess resin. Would hate to see it go to waste on a shelf...

 

Thanks for that tid bit about the 80grit etching! Oh also that's a great link you posted full of awesome information!!!

 

I had a little time to kill this evening, so I decided to work on rear door panel that was cracked. The panel clips were not holding panel at the bottom, so it flopped around every time the door was closed.

Prep surface well and make sure you use enough hardener.



Haven't decided on my dash yet, more pieces are missing than left there. Sorry about the blur. 15 minutes of fumes - - -it looked fine at the time!