Brake problems
Nope. Just take the cover off the master cylinder, and leave it lay there loose, use the c-clamp to drive the piston back in SLOWLY. Just put some pressure on it so it moves, don't reef on it. Drive it all the way back in if you are doing new pads. If you aren't, I think I would still drive it all the way in, just so I wouldn't have to take everything apart again to drive it in some more.
When its all assembled. Pump up the brakes BEFORE you start the engine. It will prolly take a couple pumps to get your brakes back, (get the pads on the rotor again) and best to do that in the driveway, not on the road......
When its all assembled. Pump up the brakes BEFORE you start the engine. It will prolly take a couple pumps to get your brakes back, (get the pads on the rotor again) and best to do that in the driveway, not on the road......
ok. so heres my situation. there not new pads and the pads are too close together when i go to put the caliper back on. i already took off the master cylinder cap off. so when i try the c clamp it doesnt wanna go back in. im not sure what to do still
Have to drive the piston in straight. If you get it crooked, it won't go... at all... you will have to REALLY tighten things down to get it to move. If you think its crooked, have a friend step on the brake LIGHTLY just to get the piston to come out a little, and loosen itself up. Then make sure the clamp is centered well, and push the piston in. If it goes a bit, stops, and no matter how much you tighten it, it won't go..... crack open the bleeder valve. If the piston then goes in easily, replace the soft brake line.
You have to remove the outboard pad, as it hangs on to the caliper, I think...... put something between the c-clamp 'foot', and the inboard pad though... don't wanna marf up the surface.
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Not sure how they are held on..... some just use spring clips, others are staked in place. I have a 3/4 ton, and its prolly different than what you have. Should be able to just pry it out with a large screwdriver.







