can I please get a majority vote?
#11
well... I'm a dope....
the arrow was pointing the direction of the flow... I had it right the first time... then yesterday I introduced the additional aux cooler.. and somehow got myself all twisted up.. and curiously dyslexic..
HeyYou- a cold winter here is 20*.. I can count on one hand after living here around ten years the times it's dipped below that.. and even then, it is usually only for a matter of hours- which fortunately are the same hours my **** is sleeping it off.. I'll monitor it and hope not to see an issue.. ultimetly, I want to introduce one of those little T thermostatically controlled valves, and have it either push to the additional aux cooler, or pull from the rad and head back home.. My figuring up till this point was that little T may be as dangerous as the check valve.. but now the remote filter is picking up right where the check valve used to be, and cleaning things up before it gets to the radiator or aux coolers..
I appreciate the help you guys gave, and your welcome for the entertainment of my little episode.. :-)
roger out..
the arrow was pointing the direction of the flow... I had it right the first time... then yesterday I introduced the additional aux cooler.. and somehow got myself all twisted up.. and curiously dyslexic..
HeyYou- a cold winter here is 20*.. I can count on one hand after living here around ten years the times it's dipped below that.. and even then, it is usually only for a matter of hours- which fortunately are the same hours my **** is sleeping it off.. I'll monitor it and hope not to see an issue.. ultimetly, I want to introduce one of those little T thermostatically controlled valves, and have it either push to the additional aux cooler, or pull from the rad and head back home.. My figuring up till this point was that little T may be as dangerous as the check valve.. but now the remote filter is picking up right where the check valve used to be, and cleaning things up before it gets to the radiator or aux coolers..
I appreciate the help you guys gave, and your welcome for the entertainment of my little episode.. :-)
roger out..
#12
I thought I'd come back and conclude this thread if anyone ever searches for it..
the high pressure line is the one containing the check valve, exiting the transmission and running to the radiator..
if you're introducing a remote filter, it's best to introduce it in the high pressure line, for two reasons.. 1- it also acts as a check valve, which doesn't allow your Torque Converter to flow back.. 2- it cleans the fluid before it makes it to the radiator, or external coolers, which greatly reduces the opportunity to clog one of your coolers.. the biggest reason though is to be able to swap filters and fluid with much less effort.. you won't have to drop the pan again until band adjustment time, and the internal filter will easily last the interval between band adjustments..
run your external (even if it is an additional) axillary cooler after the radiator, and feed it back into the low pressure line running back to the tranny.. if you're in a cold area, you can always block it like you would a radiator in the winter..
I bought one of those little IR temperature detectors..
did you know:
beer out of my fridge is precisely 43.4 degrees.. unacceptable..
my dog's bung hole is 97.2 degrees.. I'll have to check it later to see if this is normal..
headers get really hot.. like, 348.6 degrees hot..
w/ a 180* stat, and efans with a controller set to launch the fans at 172*, there is an almost 30* difference between the coolant cold to coolant hot line.. that's with the fans coming on for approx 5 seconds, and staying off for around 20~25 before launching them again.. those dang things MOVE some air..
the tranny high pressure line is around 120* exiting the tranny, and shaves 12* through the cooling system before reentering the tranny.. that is at idle with the truck stationary.. that means the ATF+4 is WARMED by the radiator (to what degree I don't know), and then the OE heat exchange and added aux heat exchange shave it 12* + whatever temperature the main radiator added to it.. that's pretty good to know, because that is on a stationary truck.. with that bad bear moving, it shaves a TON more off..
I ran it down the road pretty hard in effort to test my plumbing under higher pressure, AND to attempt to put the tranny under some load to see how much the additional aux cooler helped.. results:
main radiator: 165~179* between fan intervals..
high pressure line fitting: 174*
low pressure line fitting: 149*
the external filter, and additional external heat exchange shaves 25* off the ATF+4.. I have really straight flat roads here, but even so I'm not about to leave the dog behind the wheel as I climb out on the hood of a moving truck and shoot cooling lines with the IR gun to get a reading.. meaning: there is even greater opportunity that it is shaving more than 35* when the truck is moving 30+ mph..
I'm now supremely confident the truck will be able to WORK HARD without concern for overheating, either oil, transmission fluid, or coolant..
that's a great peace of mind..
for a total of under $500, I managed to address all three of those concerns.. I highly rec these mods.
by the way.. the transmission pan was 162*, the oil pan was 158*, and the lady at the Wendy's drive throughs forehead is 93.2*... I should have got one of these IR guns A LONG time ago..
the high pressure line is the one containing the check valve, exiting the transmission and running to the radiator..
if you're introducing a remote filter, it's best to introduce it in the high pressure line, for two reasons.. 1- it also acts as a check valve, which doesn't allow your Torque Converter to flow back.. 2- it cleans the fluid before it makes it to the radiator, or external coolers, which greatly reduces the opportunity to clog one of your coolers.. the biggest reason though is to be able to swap filters and fluid with much less effort.. you won't have to drop the pan again until band adjustment time, and the internal filter will easily last the interval between band adjustments..
run your external (even if it is an additional) axillary cooler after the radiator, and feed it back into the low pressure line running back to the tranny.. if you're in a cold area, you can always block it like you would a radiator in the winter..
I bought one of those little IR temperature detectors..
did you know:
beer out of my fridge is precisely 43.4 degrees.. unacceptable..
my dog's bung hole is 97.2 degrees.. I'll have to check it later to see if this is normal..
headers get really hot.. like, 348.6 degrees hot..
w/ a 180* stat, and efans with a controller set to launch the fans at 172*, there is an almost 30* difference between the coolant cold to coolant hot line.. that's with the fans coming on for approx 5 seconds, and staying off for around 20~25 before launching them again.. those dang things MOVE some air..
the tranny high pressure line is around 120* exiting the tranny, and shaves 12* through the cooling system before reentering the tranny.. that is at idle with the truck stationary.. that means the ATF+4 is WARMED by the radiator (to what degree I don't know), and then the OE heat exchange and added aux heat exchange shave it 12* + whatever temperature the main radiator added to it.. that's pretty good to know, because that is on a stationary truck.. with that bad bear moving, it shaves a TON more off..
I ran it down the road pretty hard in effort to test my plumbing under higher pressure, AND to attempt to put the tranny under some load to see how much the additional aux cooler helped.. results:
main radiator: 165~179* between fan intervals..
high pressure line fitting: 174*
low pressure line fitting: 149*
the external filter, and additional external heat exchange shaves 25* off the ATF+4.. I have really straight flat roads here, but even so I'm not about to leave the dog behind the wheel as I climb out on the hood of a moving truck and shoot cooling lines with the IR gun to get a reading.. meaning: there is even greater opportunity that it is shaving more than 35* when the truck is moving 30+ mph..
I'm now supremely confident the truck will be able to WORK HARD without concern for overheating, either oil, transmission fluid, or coolant..
that's a great peace of mind..
for a total of under $500, I managed to address all three of those concerns.. I highly rec these mods.
by the way.. the transmission pan was 162*, the oil pan was 158*, and the lady at the Wendy's drive throughs forehead is 93.2*... I should have got one of these IR guns A LONG time ago..
#14
I cannot imagine why you would want / need to know this. Even another dog would only be inclined to sniff, and not care about the temperature....lol.
Glad there were no photos - this time!
#15
well, imagine HER surprise to discover a little red dot trying to enter that hole... that would put the freak on me if i didn't understand laser pointers for certain.. but even said, the lady at Wendy's was more freaked than the dog..
#16
Well duh. Your lucky she didn't/couldn't carry a gun on her person. She might have just shot you. That laser pointer kinda looks like a laser sight in the dark at a distance.
That being said, if I had an IR gun I'd be doing some of the um, same testing you've done. All In the cause for science and discovery I'm sure
That being said, if I had an IR gun I'd be doing some of the um, same testing you've done. All In the cause for science and discovery I'm sure
#17
Great post, thanks for the conclusion post too Drewactual, I have also been very confused by these same topics on other threads but you've cleared it up.
Curious why it cost $500 for these mods though. Just for an external cooler, external filter, and the appropriate 8 or so feet of hoses? I am not anywhere close to being even remotely a mechanic and rely on these posts/instructions heavily.
Thanks again
Curious why it cost $500 for these mods though. Just for an external cooler, external filter, and the appropriate 8 or so feet of hoses? I am not anywhere close to being even remotely a mechanic and rely on these posts/instructions heavily.
Thanks again
#18
I thought I'd come back and conclude this thread if anyone ever searches for it..
the high pressure line is the one containing the check valve, exiting the transmission and running to the radiator..
if you're introducing a remote filter, it's best to introduce it in the high pressure line, for two reasons.. 1- it also acts as a check valve, which doesn't allow your Torque Converter to flow back.. 2- it cleans the fluid before it makes it to the radiator, or external coolers, which greatly reduces the opportunity to clog one of your coolers.. the biggest reason though is to be able to swap filters and fluid with much less effort.. you won't have to drop the pan again until band adjustment time, and the internal filter will easily last the interval between band adjustments..
run your external (even if it is an additional) axillary cooler after the radiator, and feed it back into the low pressure line running back to the tranny.. if you're in a cold area, you can always block it like you would a radiator in the winter..
I bought one of those little IR temperature detectors..
did you know:
beer out of my fridge is precisely 43.4 degrees.. unacceptable..
my dog's bung hole is 97.2 degrees.. I'll have to check it later to see if this is normal..
headers get really hot.. like, 348.6 degrees hot..
w/ a 180* stat, and efans with a controller set to launch the fans at 172*, there is an almost 30* difference between the coolant cold to coolant hot line.. that's with the fans coming on for approx 5 seconds, and staying off for around 20~25 before launching them again.. those dang things MOVE some air..
the tranny high pressure line is around 120* exiting the tranny, and shaves 12* through the cooling system before reentering the tranny.. that is at idle with the truck stationary.. that means the ATF+4 is WARMED by the radiator (to what degree I don't know), and then the OE heat exchange and added aux heat exchange shave it 12* + whatever temperature the main radiator added to it.. that's pretty good to know, because that is on a stationary truck.. with that bad bear moving, it shaves a TON more off..
I ran it down the road pretty hard in effort to test my plumbing under higher pressure, AND to attempt to put the tranny under some load to see how much the additional aux cooler helped.. results:
main radiator: 165~179* between fan intervals..
high pressure line fitting: 174*
low pressure line fitting: 149*
the external filter, and additional external heat exchange shaves 25* off the ATF+4.. I have really straight flat roads here, but even so I'm not about to leave the dog behind the wheel as I climb out on the hood of a moving truck and shoot cooling lines with the IR gun to get a reading.. meaning: there is even greater opportunity that it is shaving more than 35* when the truck is moving 30+ mph..
I'm now supremely confident the truck will be able to WORK HARD without concern for overheating, either oil, transmission fluid, or coolant..
that's a great peace of mind..
for a total of under $500, I managed to address all three of those concerns.. I highly rec these mods.
by the way.. the transmission pan was 162*, the oil pan was 158*, and the lady at the Wendy's drive throughs forehead is 93.2*... I should have got one of these IR guns A LONG time ago..
the high pressure line is the one containing the check valve, exiting the transmission and running to the radiator..
if you're introducing a remote filter, it's best to introduce it in the high pressure line, for two reasons.. 1- it also acts as a check valve, which doesn't allow your Torque Converter to flow back.. 2- it cleans the fluid before it makes it to the radiator, or external coolers, which greatly reduces the opportunity to clog one of your coolers.. the biggest reason though is to be able to swap filters and fluid with much less effort.. you won't have to drop the pan again until band adjustment time, and the internal filter will easily last the interval between band adjustments..
run your external (even if it is an additional) axillary cooler after the radiator, and feed it back into the low pressure line running back to the tranny.. if you're in a cold area, you can always block it like you would a radiator in the winter..
I bought one of those little IR temperature detectors..
did you know:
beer out of my fridge is precisely 43.4 degrees.. unacceptable..
my dog's bung hole is 97.2 degrees.. I'll have to check it later to see if this is normal..
headers get really hot.. like, 348.6 degrees hot..
w/ a 180* stat, and efans with a controller set to launch the fans at 172*, there is an almost 30* difference between the coolant cold to coolant hot line.. that's with the fans coming on for approx 5 seconds, and staying off for around 20~25 before launching them again.. those dang things MOVE some air..
the tranny high pressure line is around 120* exiting the tranny, and shaves 12* through the cooling system before reentering the tranny.. that is at idle with the truck stationary.. that means the ATF+4 is WARMED by the radiator (to what degree I don't know), and then the OE heat exchange and added aux heat exchange shave it 12* + whatever temperature the main radiator added to it.. that's pretty good to know, because that is on a stationary truck.. with that bad bear moving, it shaves a TON more off..
I ran it down the road pretty hard in effort to test my plumbing under higher pressure, AND to attempt to put the tranny under some load to see how much the additional aux cooler helped.. results:
main radiator: 165~179* between fan intervals..
high pressure line fitting: 174*
low pressure line fitting: 149*
the external filter, and additional external heat exchange shaves 25* off the ATF+4.. I have really straight flat roads here, but even so I'm not about to leave the dog behind the wheel as I climb out on the hood of a moving truck and shoot cooling lines with the IR gun to get a reading.. meaning: there is even greater opportunity that it is shaving more than 35* when the truck is moving 30+ mph..
I'm now supremely confident the truck will be able to WORK HARD without concern for overheating, either oil, transmission fluid, or coolant..
that's a great peace of mind..
for a total of under $500, I managed to address all three of those concerns.. I highly rec these mods.
by the way.. the transmission pan was 162*, the oil pan was 158*, and the lady at the Wendy's drive throughs forehead is 93.2*... I should have got one of these IR guns A LONG time ago..
Last edited by kawiultra99; 02-09-2013 at 04:02 PM.
#19