Things you should know about fuel Injectors and our trucks (Second time)
#1
Things you should know about fuel Injectors and our trucks (Second time)
Alright,
This is an educational thread about Injectors and our trucks. I tried one of these a while ago, and it had LOTS of info, but I named the thread "Injectors that will work with our trucks." It was misleading, and I should have added some information in the beginning.
I will be explaining things about the fuel system, for our trucks, and about the injector connectors themselves (on the wiring harness) that you will need to know. Then i will go into injectors.
I. Fuel Pressure and Flow rates
Our trucks run at 49-50 PSI. Most injectors are RATED at 43.5 PSI, if not otherwise stated. So, if you see a 24# injector, it will really flow at 25.5 PSI. What does this mean? It means that your truck will not know that and keep telling the injectors to fire as if they were within stock parameters. YES, the O2 sensor compensates, but there is a limit to how low the duty cycle can be. And you will still run rich. Hence why you need a custom tune to trim the fuel by as much as 20%.
II. Resistance.
You will want 12-16 ohm resistance injectors for our trucks, specifically 14 ohms.
III. EV1 and EV6 connectors
1. If you have a rectangle shaped connector, you have EV1 style connectors from the wiring harness
2. If you have an oval shaped connection with a liuttle red tab on it, then you have EV6 style connectors. EV6 are in later models, EV1 are in earlier models.
3. My 1996 had EV1, my 2001 has EV6 (but not anymore). If you get an EV1 style injector, you can get new pigtails and splice them in. Just ask the guys you get the injectors from. ALSO, you can get an EV6 to EV1 adapter. Easier and no splicing/soldering.
So, before you get injectors:
1. Check your fuel pressure (primed and idle) to see where it is sitting. That will give you a reference as to what flow rate you are looking at.
2. Ask whoever you are buying injectors from, what the flow rate is RATED at. Makes a BIG difference.
3. Check your injector connection type (EV1 or EV2 and prepare to do some extra work and spend a bit extra money for the connectors)
Next post will be about fuel injectors and recommendations. Will include videos that are very useful for knowledge of injectors.
This is an educational thread about Injectors and our trucks. I tried one of these a while ago, and it had LOTS of info, but I named the thread "Injectors that will work with our trucks." It was misleading, and I should have added some information in the beginning.
I will be explaining things about the fuel system, for our trucks, and about the injector connectors themselves (on the wiring harness) that you will need to know. Then i will go into injectors.
I. Fuel Pressure and Flow rates
Our trucks run at 49-50 PSI. Most injectors are RATED at 43.5 PSI, if not otherwise stated. So, if you see a 24# injector, it will really flow at 25.5 PSI. What does this mean? It means that your truck will not know that and keep telling the injectors to fire as if they were within stock parameters. YES, the O2 sensor compensates, but there is a limit to how low the duty cycle can be. And you will still run rich. Hence why you need a custom tune to trim the fuel by as much as 20%.
II. Resistance.
You will want 12-16 ohm resistance injectors for our trucks, specifically 14 ohms.
III. EV1 and EV6 connectors
1. If you have a rectangle shaped connector, you have EV1 style connectors from the wiring harness
2. If you have an oval shaped connection with a liuttle red tab on it, then you have EV6 style connectors. EV6 are in later models, EV1 are in earlier models.
3. My 1996 had EV1, my 2001 has EV6 (but not anymore). If you get an EV1 style injector, you can get new pigtails and splice them in. Just ask the guys you get the injectors from. ALSO, you can get an EV6 to EV1 adapter. Easier and no splicing/soldering.
So, before you get injectors:
1. Check your fuel pressure (primed and idle) to see where it is sitting. That will give you a reference as to what flow rate you are looking at.
2. Ask whoever you are buying injectors from, what the flow rate is RATED at. Makes a BIG difference.
3. Check your injector connection type (EV1 or EV2 and prepare to do some extra work and spend a bit extra money for the connectors)
Next post will be about fuel injectors and recommendations. Will include videos that are very useful for knowledge of injectors.
#2
Here are some videos of injectors:
1. 24# blue top injector, GM Multec, Lucas Pencil (one hole), Bosch III 19lb injector, Bosch 22lb injectors.
--The blue top, black body is discontinued. It is design II. They are replaced with ALL BLUE PLASITC design III injectors still rated at 24# @43.5 PSI).
--The Lucas is the same style as our stock injectors. Pencil is not a very atomized stream. BUT it is very good for BOOST applications.
NOTE: Look at the flow tubes at the end. If you have 24# injectors you are flowing some SERIOUS fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/user/rbanner1...29/Emnax2J4FX4
1. 24# blue top injector, GM Multec, Lucas Pencil (one hole), Bosch III 19lb injector, Bosch 22lb injectors.
--The blue top, black body is discontinued. It is design II. They are replaced with ALL BLUE PLASITC design III injectors still rated at 24# @43.5 PSI).
--The Lucas is the same style as our stock injectors. Pencil is not a very atomized stream. BUT it is very good for BOOST applications.
NOTE: Look at the flow tubes at the end. If you have 24# injectors you are flowing some SERIOUS fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/user/rbanner1...29/Emnax2J4FX4
#3
Here is a video of 8 of the 19 lb injectors going from idle to 10K RPM. Very atomized.
http://www.youtube.com/user/rbanner1...20/KFY_PKJNqbs
http://www.youtube.com/user/rbanner1...20/KFY_PKJNqbs
#4
This last part is a mod for those who buy the AIR GAP form hughes. There is a noted flaw in the Hughes/Edelbrock Air gap manifold for the rail brackets and height. So the injectors sometimes do not fit.
Here is a good mod to do to make sure that you have a good seal. It just uses another O-ring:
http://www.youtube.com/user/rbanner1...22/O4rMKECHbeM
Here is a good mod to do to make sure that you have a good seal. It just uses another O-ring:
http://www.youtube.com/user/rbanner1...22/O4rMKECHbeM
#5
I used to recommend fiveomotorsports, because I got my bosch 24s from them, but I found another site that has better prices and service. And are more reputable:
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...ewCat&catId=13
That is their dodge line, and the yellow ones are the 19 lb Bosch III upgrade that you saw in the pics.
Direct link:
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...d&productId=81
This is the same guy that made the videos on youtube. Injectors are a big thing among MUSTANG enthusiasts. Mainly because you can do anything to their ECU (called TweECer by themselves). ECU=PCM= engine computer.
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...ewCat&catId=13
That is their dodge line, and the yellow ones are the 19 lb Bosch III upgrade that you saw in the pics.
Direct link:
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...d&productId=81
This is the same guy that made the videos on youtube. Injectors are a big thing among MUSTANG enthusiasts. Mainly because you can do anything to their ECU (called TweECer by themselves). ECU=PCM= engine computer.
#6
Check out this website....www.cruzinperformance.com/
He is a local guy. From what I understand he really knows his stuff.
He is a local guy. From what I understand he really knows his stuff.
#7
so i'm a little lost CPTAFW163 so is are the yellow injector upgraded for like better performance or are they just like a better quality to replace stock injectors that are bad?
cause i'm looking to up grade my throttle body either from fastman or hughes and thought about upgrade injectors as well. so any more info would be nice too
thanks
cause i'm looking to up grade my throttle body either from fastman or hughes and thought about upgrade injectors as well. so any more info would be nice too
thanks
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#8
man, stock injectors are A-Okay.. the only time you'll benefit by upgrading is along with some major mods.. stick with them until proven otherwise.
Captain and me, man, we've shared more than a few PM's trying to hash out injectors- trying everything from swapping tunes to insights and opinions.. These things get confusing quick..
here is one: Ford Motor Sport (FSM) Injectors are mostly rated at 39psi of fuel pressure at the rail.. Meaning, pumping the somewhat industry standard 43.5psi will increase their rated delivery.. and the thing that can be MOST confusing about delivery at different psi is that characteristics of injectors are across the board too.. Think of it like this:
you have two injectors, both rated at what appears to be the emerging standard of 43.5psi.. one is a Bosch, the other is a Seimans.. You slap them on a machine producing 43.5psi and they both deliver as advertised.. and they both have nice little spray patterns.. then, you jack the pressure up, to say 49psi.. One of the two still has a decent spray pattern, but the other has resorted to a stream.. One is delivering what you would expect mathematically at 49psi as compared to 43.5psi, the other is not- it is producing more or less.. point being, the injectors are tested at the rated level to be capable of producing advertised delivery and pattern at that psi.. when you start messing around with either, you really don't know what you're going to get..
I too run FSM GenIII 24# injectors... I had to get Sean to curve back the duty cycle 6%.. I'm sure my PCM curved back some more all on it's own.. Based JUST on injector 'upgrade', there was zero gain (or loss for that matter).. I certainly wish I would have stayed with the factory injectors.. It would make life easier and more predictable.. speaking of predictable:
There is NO WAY, no matter how foul this sounds, that I would venture into experimenting with injectors, knowing now what I didn't know then.. I'll happily do something somebody else has done, (given that person was reliable and sensible).. there is just a lot more to it than there seems to be...
make life easier, not harder.. keep the stock injectors.. if you ever boost, or bore/stroke- THEN you're going to hafta make that change.. until then, you may want to leave it alone.
Captain and me, man, we've shared more than a few PM's trying to hash out injectors- trying everything from swapping tunes to insights and opinions.. These things get confusing quick..
here is one: Ford Motor Sport (FSM) Injectors are mostly rated at 39psi of fuel pressure at the rail.. Meaning, pumping the somewhat industry standard 43.5psi will increase their rated delivery.. and the thing that can be MOST confusing about delivery at different psi is that characteristics of injectors are across the board too.. Think of it like this:
you have two injectors, both rated at what appears to be the emerging standard of 43.5psi.. one is a Bosch, the other is a Seimans.. You slap them on a machine producing 43.5psi and they both deliver as advertised.. and they both have nice little spray patterns.. then, you jack the pressure up, to say 49psi.. One of the two still has a decent spray pattern, but the other has resorted to a stream.. One is delivering what you would expect mathematically at 49psi as compared to 43.5psi, the other is not- it is producing more or less.. point being, the injectors are tested at the rated level to be capable of producing advertised delivery and pattern at that psi.. when you start messing around with either, you really don't know what you're going to get..
I too run FSM GenIII 24# injectors... I had to get Sean to curve back the duty cycle 6%.. I'm sure my PCM curved back some more all on it's own.. Based JUST on injector 'upgrade', there was zero gain (or loss for that matter).. I certainly wish I would have stayed with the factory injectors.. It would make life easier and more predictable.. speaking of predictable:
There is NO WAY, no matter how foul this sounds, that I would venture into experimenting with injectors, knowing now what I didn't know then.. I'll happily do something somebody else has done, (given that person was reliable and sensible).. there is just a lot more to it than there seems to be...
make life easier, not harder.. keep the stock injectors.. if you ever boost, or bore/stroke- THEN you're going to hafta make that change.. until then, you may want to leave it alone.
#9
#10
http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...p?topic=9467.0
Oh, and I have never seen a crate motor for less than 4,000. Unless you get a crappy JASPER reman engine. I would not boost one of those. With a new motor and a procharger setup, I wish I had about $8K lying around.
Last edited by CPTAFW163; 09-28-2011 at 03:16 PM.