Screw the engine mods! Your going to run HUGE tires, you need to re- gear that sucker! Also, beef up that tranny, u-joints, axel shafts, and brakes. Bad *** lift with bad *** motor equals a lot of broken oem driveline

 

+1 ^^^

 

no not screw engine mods..... tranny is built has a HD tquor convertor shift kit billet interns. est to handle 500hp. has 5k miles on it. u joints all 5 u joints have ctm upgraded u joints brakes are slotted and cross drilled rotors at all 4 corners. rear end is rebuild(to stock specs) front end is stcok with 160k but i have the spinfree locking hub kit on itsd way to my house i ordered it last week.

so i'm good on the other stuff. i'll rear gear it once i figure out what type of lockers i'm going with.(i.e air lockers, or electric or the old fashion lockers)

i'm just lookig to beef up the motor a little bit. before the truck it to tall for me to feel like climbing under the hood.

but thanks for your input. like i said everything does help.



on a differnt note. are there gear drives for these motor or ? and with i replace my rockers with the 1.7 should i replace my vavle springs and will the stock push rods work or will i need longer ones

 

The harland sharp non-adjustables are direct bolt-ons. Of course, it really wouldn't hurt to upgrade the springs and such..... stock pushrod length is fine.

There probably are gear drives available, but, my guess is going to be "not cheap". A good double roller timing set will be more than adequate to the task. (quieter too...)

 

What free spinning hubs?

I'd suggest a good set of selectable lockers. ARBs would be my preference though.

 

With a new cam, always go with new springs. For more torque, go with a longer lift and moderate duration with stock overlap. More high end (HP), go with a long duration and a shorter lift with a good amount of overlap. The latter will give you a very nice sound, but watch your stall speed on your converter.

I went with the highest amount of lift I could go with and the overlap and duration close to a R.V. cam. I am very happy with the amount of low end grunt I got from it while still not stalling while crawling. Call Hughes and they will guide you to a cam for your needs.

Sounds like your drivetrain is solid. I would go with a Detroit Full locker in the rear. Bulletproof and cheaper than faulty pneumatics. I wouldn't worry about the front unless you are doing some serious rock crawling or mudding.

Check your trans cooling line also. Now is a good time to rid of the faulty check valve. Electric fan will also free up some power. Good luck and show us some pics!