Next time it happens do a continuity check between negative battery lug and chassis, then another continuity check between negative battery lug and engine. I'm betting it's a grounding problem. Maybe a bad battery ground cable. The thing about those intermittent battery cables they can continuity check just fine until you put a load to them , ie starter motor, then they can open up and show the problem. That's why you have to do the testing whenever you are experiencing the symptoms. Intermittent problems are real fun sometimes.

 

I don't think anyone's mentioned the most obvious possibility - a bad ground where the negative battery terminal attaches to the engine block; give that a shot. After 16 years, that bolts gonna be really frozen. Plenty of penetrating oil (I like Aerokroil, then PB Blaster), and you should be able to work it out. Clean everything bright and shiny with a wire wheel, and snug it back up.

Next, I like Peshewa's idea about the battery itself; it might indeed be screwed up on the inside. I've had posts come loose, but not so much since I've learned to treat them very gently. No more banging terminals on; now I spread them if necessary with one of those nice little terminal-spreading tools, and make sure the terminals are in good shape, and replace the terminal bolts when necessary.

Also, I love measuring things, like battery Cold Cranking Amps. The best tools for that are made by Midtronics; i think most good parts stores will have one. Take your battery out, fully charge it, and have it tested. I'd say if it's more than 100 CCA below its rated capacity just get a new one since winter is coming anyway.

Have you tried wiggling the posts around when everything goes dead, to see if there's a sketchy connection going on inside the battery? Or gently rapping on various connections?

Lastly, although I can't say I've ever seen it, you might be right about the actual battery cablesbeing bad, although technically I'd call it an "open condition" if they were broken inside, since "a short on the positive" would result in quite a fireworks display.

Really lastly, HeyYou/Brian really knows his stuff, so maybe try googling "bad PDC" to try to get a handle on how common that is.

Good luck, and keep the faith. Like an old boss of mine was fond of saying: "Man made it, man can fix it".

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"Intermittent problems are real fun sometimes".

+1

 

I called my dealership for recall info today, they said there is a recall on some full sized rams involving the transmission power cable or something that sounds like that, they said it is a small cable that goes to the power distribution block from the tranny that sometimes can cause arching & fires. They said the kit to fix it is basically a small bar where the cable attaches to the power distribution block, rather small. Check it out just for funzies if all else fails. I like all the advice I've seen here and you have some great things to look at. Please post when you have the issue licked so we can all be enlightened!

 

Hey guys for some reason even though I have subscribed to this thread for instant email notification I didnt get em...anyways so I decided to come post back&saw all of the replies.First off thanks a ton!Second ended up just being a bad battery cable.Thanks again guys!

 

Which one? the negative? For some reason my mustang likes to eat negative battery cables. I put a monster brand negative battery cable in it and it's lasted quite a while.

 

I make my own from double insulated ground wire for a mig welder, those last longer then the store bought ones for me. Heavy gauge & very flexible, not to mention made in the USA.