I would say that you've never spent money on rebuilding or replacing a front shaft. You don't hammer out CV joints. The last quote I got was around 200 bucks IF the center ball doesn't need a new mounting stud welded on.
Having the shaft constantly spinning exacerbates the wear on this joint. It also spins the T-case innards and while the wear is minimal, it is still there on these components. Why do think its is "part time" transfer case?
EBay sells new ones for around that price. BTW it can be done but you pretty much have to remove the shaft to get at the grease hole for the CV hole.

I didn't notice any unusual habits on the street. Some folks say the truck pulls to the left. Never noticed but I drove on Phoenix roads

NOw if I were to do one for off roading I would want lockouts or a posi lock...this would allow you to drive in 4 lo with the left front pulling you. Then you lock in both fronts and un lock if you had to turn.

 

It's part time because there is no provision for differentiation between front and rear. That doesn't work well on the street..... (or any other hard surface.)

I drove a full time 4wd blazer for five years. NP203 transfer case, and the same design driveshaft out front as we have on our trucks. The blazer had over a 100K on it when I got it, and I put another 80K on it. (and I did indeed take it off road, frequently) I never had a problem with the CV joint on that. I replaced the joint at the axle end of the front shaft though.... twice.....

Lockouts up front would be the ideal solution. I agree with ya there. But, I am just lazy, and don't wanna have to get in and out of the truck to lock 'em in.

 

I had 78 Ramcharger with the 203 which is a differentiating transfercase and no lockouts or CAD. So with both axles spinning the driveshaft spun. My 81 d150 stepside had the same setup but with lockouts.
I blew the crap out of my Cardian socket assembly in the Ramcharger and it about shook me out of the truck trying to drive it in 2wd. 4wd was impossible!
That was a 325.00 expense I didn't appreciate. Back in the 80s you couldn't jump on EBAY and order a chinese replacement. You took it to a driveline shop and got the shaft.
My appologies for the thread jack...back on topic...

I forgot to mention that the person I bought my locker from destroyed his front D-44 from hardcore off roading. He switched to a front D-60 after the umpteenth axle joint explosion blew a front C off his tube and sent his front tire popping off.

OP, when you inspect that locker, check the end caps carefully for hairline cracks and make sure none of the pins are broken. That's what I found when I removed my locker and put the stock gears back in.

I'll stand by my point. If you own a front locker, there is a HIGH potential for extra wear on parts and drivetrain destruction. I had to do it over I'd buy a rear lunchbox and put up with the tire scrappage on pavement.

 

He's gonna lock the rear too. (which is something I really wouldn't mind doing either....)

Yeah, you will get more wear. Depending on condition of the parts.... well, yeah, it's a crap shoot.

I don't remember seeing anything in here about his tire size though, and that is going to make a BIG difference on how durable it is.. Larger the tire, higher the likelihood to grenade things.

 

Any mod to the drivetrain that changes anything factory will increase wear elsewheres in that drivetrain.
Mayhem is the spectre that haunts every enthusiasts vehicle.

 

My Dakota has the same T-case. It's a live front axle. It's doing just fine.

 

I have 265/75/16 on my truck now and might put a 33 on when i put my suspension and body lift on. I rebuilt the front end less than a year ago no more than 10000 miles ago. New gears, spicer u joints, ball joints. You name i did it. The locker has never been out of the box so it should be fine.

 

bought the locker just waiting to get it.