limiting straps are your best friend if you plan on flexing any serious amount. the guy in the video is an idiot if he doesnt run them. they arent really that expensive and can save you from a massive headache on the trail and very possibly an expensive repair

 

I'm going to say that is overkill. However, every vehicle is just a tad bit different. More so in the person's tool collection. The number 10 item on that list, given all the disconnections, should be the MOST recommended, which is an Alignment. Not that I'm the example, but I didn't have to do No 1 and 2, however I did have a healthy bit of toe in. Really, not too shabby for a conservative list of tips and order.



Seriously, you guys the video is realtime. It's not a still photo. Meaning you can see how darn slow he is going. The point being you can see how "hard" he is dropping that driver side axle. Slow and controlled. There is no shock loaded drop on the shock itself. There are all kinds of wheeling out there (i.e., rock crawling, baja, mudding, fire roads, etc.). All have to be driven differently and while limiting straps are a "good" idea, they are NOT always necessary. This simple example is one of them, which was just to show HeyYou that you can get full droop without launching the ****.

The guy has been wheeling for years and has done the Rubicon. Easy on the overreaction yo.





I'm still asking what people might do to just keep the springs other than using a limiting strap, which btw does not ensure you toss a spring. You could still have a limiting strap that will stretch enough to move a spring. Course the spring won't get tossed b/c of the shock inside it, at least for this configuration (shock in coil).

 

Steps 1-3 are what make the job so much ezer to do, This will let the diff get full drop so the springs and spring pads are very ez to work with. The only special tool you might need is a pickle fork, and it's no more than 10min work to disconnect these parts. Of course a front end alignment is needed and that should be in his instruction sheet. I posted this to help him in his job, If he can take 10-20min to make the job ezer/safer I know I would.

 

hey thanks for the tips and all. made me think of something. im kinda limited on tools, and support. so how high does the truck need to be jacked in order to get these bitches in there? instructions just say to lower it, dont say how high it needs to be in the first place or nothin. and it dont say to disconnect the sway bar and all that, but im sure it does help. so how high do i need it to be to get these things in? thanks.

 

Get the front bumper top about 50" off the ground and block the frame just behind the lower control arms both sides.

 

does it have to be that high? cuz i dunno if i can get it that high but i will try....

 

If you can't get it that high then consider using spring compressors. They can be purchased at most auto parts stores. I used them but found that my smaller compressor (.8 hp/6 gal) wasn't up to the task. It did help to disconnect the track bar and ends of my sway bar. Not a HUGE difference but it helped since I don't have super tall jack stands.

Anyway, good luck.

 

well guys i got it installed today. here are some before and after pics.
before


after

 

Looks like it is sitting a bit high in front? Or, is that just me.

Nice truck though.....

 

no your correct it was, but it was the pavement it was sittin on. they have it slanted a little right there, so the water runs off down the middle of the parking lot. its perfectly level though other wise. i love it.