i fixed a broken vacuum line near the engine manifold and 4WD started working. i took it to a local mechanic and we lifted the truck to verify all 4 wheels were spinning. i'm so glad it's working again. now i'd just like for the 4WD light to work.

i put a new 4WD light indicator switch in last weekend and that didn't solve the problem. when i short the 2 pins of the electrical harness at the CAD switch with a paper clip, the 4WD light does illuminate so the LED isn't burned out.

is it possible that maybe the fork inside the CAD isn't contacting the switch detent ball with enough force to close the circuit?

maybe i bought a bad switch. i could try yet another new indicator switch but i have a feeling that would be waste of $15.

a couple notes:

the CAD actuator motor rotates somewhat freely. is that normal?

in order to disengage 4WD, i had to put it in reverse first and then D. i think that's normal according to what i've read here.

let me know if you have any ideas.

thanks!

kevin

 

Test the switch. Pull it out, hook it up, press the ball, see if the light comes on. (probably require two people.....)

The switch is actually pressed by the actuator rod sticking out of the vacuum diaphragm. (the part the fork fits on)

Have you had the CAD apart at any time in the past? If the fork had been put on backwards, the CAD may never disengage..... and the fork wouldn't travel far enough before it hit its stop, to let the rod press the switch.

 

heyyou,

i've only had the truck for 4 months so i have no idea if it has even been taken apart. i'll test the switch first though. if that doesn't work, i guess i'll learn how to pull, disassemble and clean up the CAD.

 

Sounds like fun.

Just be careful you don't break any bolts, or, the cad housing itself..... (don't ask how I know this.....)

 

oh no... is it really that bad?? i'll soak the bolts in PB blaster for a few days before i attempt to open pull it. please just be the switch....(!!)

thanks for the tips!

 

Well, it hangs out on the front axle, so, is subject to all sorts of rude stuff on the road/trails/wherever you drive it... so, doing the PB thing a few times before actually trying to pull it is a good plan.

Also, just be careful where/how you pry on it to get it to come off........

 

Keep in mind, it could just be the connector or wire damage. Inspect before you take the CAD apart.

 

so after much troubleshooting, i believe the problem is a badly rusted actuator. i began work on replacing the motor and fork shoes. i carefully drenched the CAD bolts several times days in advance. yesterday, i went out to pull the CAD. i was as careful as possible but still snapped 3 of the 4 bolts! it was just like HeyYou predicted.

i successfully extracted both top bolts but was unable to snag the bottom two bolts. i center punched the bottom bolts and drilled the first one out perfectly. the pilot hole on the other bottom bolt walked. i don't know what to do now as i can't drill in the center of the original bolt hole.

do you think the CAD will leak with only one bottom bolt in (+ the top two bolts) and a new cork gasket?

 

Yep. I had one of the bottom bolts break, and, to get it over to the shop, so I could get it out.... I used a generous application of RTV. It still leaked. If you have to, drill the bolt as much as you can, and try an easy out. Worst case, drill the hole oversize, and use a helicoil. (thread repair method.)

 

In response to the 4x4 light: Behind the front bumper is there a pair of wires that you can trace back to the switch on the diff, mine was partially torn. I repaired the wires and it worked. Give that a try.