So if you go to the dealership and buy a set of bolts (for intake and plenum) what kind are you taking home? TTY?

 

Don't get the plenum bolts from the dealer, they come with the plate, no matter which one you get. Intake to engine bolts are TTY though. THOSE are found at the dealer, and surprisingly enough, cheaper than most other places.

 

If you go the "grade 8" route, MAKE DAMN SURE YOU CLEAN ALL THREAD MATING SURFACES!!! If not, the thread locker is useless.

 

Well...

I use Stainless Steel allen bolts from Home Depot, never had a problem with numerous manifold installs, never used any thread locker, (why?) and don't understand the need for grade 8 bolts on 12 ft lb torque rating...?

 

I reused the stockers I let you know when my truck explodes

 

This is an awesome description of bolt tightening theory: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...uetoangle.aspx

 

What...You did not buy into the Chrysler TTY bolt Hype/crap?

 

I use stainless. Every time I took the manifold off with either grade 5 or the stock bolts the things were corroded as all get out. I'll wager that blow by gases and electrolysis work a double whammy on them.

There are several charts on the Web with torque values for various bolts. IMO, the best bolt to use would be the one that gets as close to 144 in/lbs as possible at the correct torque yield.

Stainless is close. Monel bolts would be best, but its damn pricey for the corrosion resistance characteristics.

Be careful what you buy at the local hardware store. If you buy a 2.25" grade 5, because you are trying to match the length of the factory bolt, you might find that they run out of thread before you get adequate clamping force on the gasket. On the other hand, the 2" bolts only grab by a few threads. A 2.25" all thread bolt would be best.

 

Is a thread locker recommended with the factory bolts?

 

I didn't use any, and the various manuals didn't call for it either.