did the plenum reapir now i have a CEL on? i need help
Thread Starter
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All Star
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 787
Likes: 1
From: bellingham wa
so since i wont have it in till like 1pm tomorrow.. i just want to make sure it is safe to drive my truck. cause i need to travel like 35 miles today to go pick up some stuff...
also i was gonna change my 02 sensor today and do some seafoam in the intake. should hold off any that stuff till i get this CEL figured out?
also i was gonna change my 02 sensor today and do some seafoam in the intake. should hold off any that stuff till i get this CEL figured out?
Champion
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 3
From: Cape Carteret NC
that IAT ain't shizen.. it's literally a vented casing, and a wire.. it's the weakest of the two major designs that are used for that purpose.. the wire either slows resistance, which indicates heat, or it shrinks, which makes it faster when it's cold.. it's a resistance feature that indicates the approximate temperature, and that design is used as it can give readings in fluctuations as fast as the air is sucked in and used.. It has bearing on two things: timing and trim.. it can advance/retard 1.5* either direction, and I have no damn clue how much it can lean you out of fatten you up with fuel.. that part is a mystery..
there are now much better ways to do it..
that said:
they rarely break.. as long as the wiring is intact, they 'function'.. they may not function within parameters the engine believes, but they still function.. one that is working outside parameters, for instance, will belch you a 1281 "engine too cold for too long", but it WON'T (it's SOoo rare you can almost say with certainty) toss out the code you have UNLESS the wiring has lost integrity..
go ahead and buy a new sensor.. you likely need one anyway, because most of us do and don't even know it.. when you figure out where the wiring is whacked, you'll have a nice fresh IAT to manage your spark and trim.. but it's wiring, yo, not the sensor, I'm wagering..
here is a thought, though: track down the 'no bus' first.. the issue may be with that and NOT the IAT.. I don't have a schematic, but the two may have common terminals somewhere..
there are now much better ways to do it..
that said:
they rarely break.. as long as the wiring is intact, they 'function'.. they may not function within parameters the engine believes, but they still function.. one that is working outside parameters, for instance, will belch you a 1281 "engine too cold for too long", but it WON'T (it's SOoo rare you can almost say with certainty) toss out the code you have UNLESS the wiring has lost integrity..
go ahead and buy a new sensor.. you likely need one anyway, because most of us do and don't even know it.. when you figure out where the wiring is whacked, you'll have a nice fresh IAT to manage your spark and trim.. but it's wiring, yo, not the sensor, I'm wagering..
here is a thought, though: track down the 'no bus' first.. the issue may be with that and NOT the IAT.. I don't have a schematic, but the two may have common terminals somewhere..
Thread Starter
|
All Star
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 787
Likes: 1
From: bellingham wa
that IAT ain't shizen.. it's literally a vented casing, and a wire.. it's the weakest of the two major designs that are used for that purpose.. the wire either slows resistance, which indicates heat, or it shrinks, which makes it faster when it's cold.. it's a resistance feature that indicates the approximate temperature, and that design is used as it can give readings in fluctuations as fast as the air is sucked in and used.. It has bearing on two things: timing and trim.. it can advance/retard 1.5* either direction, and I have no damn clue how much it can lean you out of fatten you up with fuel.. that part is a mystery..
there are now much better ways to do it..
that said:
they rarely break.. as long as the wiring is intact, they 'function'.. they may not function within parameters the engine believes, but they still function.. one that is working outside parameters, for instance, will belch you a 1281 "engine too cold for too long", but it WON'T (it's SOoo rare you can almost say with certainty) toss out the code you have UNLESS the wiring has lost integrity..
go ahead and buy a new sensor.. you likely need one anyway, because most of us do and don't even know it.. when you figure out where the wiring is whacked, you'll have a nice fresh IAT to manage your spark and trim.. but it's wiring, yo, not the sensor, I'm wagering..
here is a thought, though: track down the 'no bus' first.. the issue may be with that and NOT the IAT.. I don't have a schematic, but the two may have common terminals somewhere..
there are now much better ways to do it..
that said:
they rarely break.. as long as the wiring is intact, they 'function'.. they may not function within parameters the engine believes, but they still function.. one that is working outside parameters, for instance, will belch you a 1281 "engine too cold for too long", but it WON'T (it's SOoo rare you can almost say with certainty) toss out the code you have UNLESS the wiring has lost integrity..
go ahead and buy a new sensor.. you likely need one anyway, because most of us do and don't even know it.. when you figure out where the wiring is whacked, you'll have a nice fresh IAT to manage your spark and trim.. but it's wiring, yo, not the sensor, I'm wagering..
here is a thought, though: track down the 'no bus' first.. the issue may be with that and NOT the IAT.. I don't have a schematic, but the two may have common terminals somewhere..
well i checked out the wiring the leads from the AIT back and nothing is pinched or etc so i'm pretty sure its pluged but i guess i'll find out tomorrow and if thay fixes it then i'll start trying to figure out what the P1687 is
I JUST WANT TO SAY THANK FOR EVERYONES HELP I'M SO GLAD YOU PEOPLE ARE AROUND TO HELP IF YOU LIVED BY ME I'D BUY YOU ALL A ROUND BUT YOU DONT SO I CAN;T LOL