i had this happen last week. It ended up being the asd relay by the fuses under the hood

 

Ok, I've changed the fuel pump tonight, the old one wouldn't come on, couldn't hear it. It started right up. warmed it up in the drive way for about 10 minutes, then took it fer' a drive. Got about 1/2 mile up the road, it dies. Had to tow it back home.

Fuel pump is coming on, strong battery, will fire, stumble once in a while and just not start.

I've changed, TPS, Crank Sensor, distributor cap, wires 8.5mm, spark plugs, coil, rotor and now fuel pump.

What can this be??? I believe I've changed everything. Also tested the ASD relay, and fuses, all good.

Thanks..

 

Find out what's missing when it won't start. Spark, or injector pulse.

 

getting plenty of spark, getting fuel. Haven't test fuel pressure, don't have a special hose for the job as my rail don't have a test port.

Truck started up no probs this morning, and again when I got home from work.

I will admit, it idles fine, but if I rev it, it'll stumble at about 600rpms coming down, jerk to 2-300 rpms and idle back up. After warm up, I'll shut the truck off, wait a few seconds to restart it and it'll run rough getting to normal idle, takes about 5-6 seconds after stumbling to start. Sometimes won't start at all, but will try a few more key turns and it'll fire again. Any ideas what would cause that, may be symptom why it wouldn't start at all last night. Odd that it starts when it wants to. Got spark, fuel, new parts, good voltage, etc...

 

disconnect the pre-cat O2 sensor, and see if some of the problems don't clear up.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys.. I've had no problems starting it since that night I installed the fuel pump. I'm wondering if it wasn't a vapor lock, as it started right up and has ever since a few hours after the install.

I am however still having stalling issues. I drove the truck Tue-Friday to work, 40 mile trip one way in hectic traffic. She only stalls in the warm up mode, once it's warmed up, I have no issues.

I'm not getting any codes via the ignition trick and obdII is clean also.

What happens, only when giving light amount of throttle for extended time, ie doing 25mph, and then let off the gas, RPM's drop to 0-100rpms and often will stall or come up to normal idle. If doing 45mph in warm up mode it doesn't do this.

Not sure if this has something to do w/ tranny, or an AIS motor somewhere that may be sticking.

I have found that when it does stall, I have to throw it up in neutral, start it and back to drive, not very safe and really has me concerned.

Like I said, it only does this while warming up, once warmed up, I've not seen any stalls or RPM jump.

 

Have you changed the pre cat o2 sensor? You can also try this, https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...n-the-iac.html

 

thanks will try cleaning the IAC. I've not messed w/ the Pre-O2, it was changed however less than 10k miles.

I will admit, after posting the above note that this only happens during warm up, well that was wrong, after 30 mile drive two days ago, hit traffic and it stalled, luckily when it does stall it fires right back up, but idle sucks. I've begun braking w/ my left foot to keep the idle up w/ my right so it don't stall. Don't want to get into this habit again.

Does anyone think this could be the hall effect, the disc under the distributor cap under the rotor that may cause this?

thanks,

 

No. It's either TPS, or IAC. The HE switch under the dist cap is cam position sensor. It's ONLY job is to provide a reference for the PCM so it knows which injector to fire. That's it.

 

Or fuel pressure. Don't understand why some just WILL NOT check it and at least rule it out of the equation.........Even a new fuel pump will ont correct a damaged or corroded fuel line, or a clog at the fuel rail, etc.

....is there a clinical definition for fuel pressure aversion? just wondering.