97 Ram Starting Issues
I have a 97 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360. About six months ago it began shutting off right after I started it. Come to find out a vacuum line had come off at the cruise control module. Ran fine after that.
A month or so later it starting doing the same thing, but only once in a while, normally when the engine was cold. After starting, if you let off the throttle, it would just die. However would start right up, but having to give it gas. I got Check Engine light and was for the TPS. I changed that and it ran like a top for about 3 weeks.
Same symptoms again, but different check engine code, this time it was the crank sensor. I changed the crank sensor on Monday which was a PITA. Truck ran like a top after the install, just like after installing the TPS. Drove it for about 200 miles Monday through Wed. this week.
Also checked all the fuses in the engine compartment, all are good.
Went out on Thursday to go somewhere and it won't start at all. It turning over, battery is new. I'm getting spark at all the plugs, I tested this w/ an inline spark plug adapter at each plug. It's like it's not firing, but I'm getting spark. I'm also getting fuel, at least I think I am cuz' I can smell it. No leaks on fuel side because of smell.
So I pulled the coil wire from the distributor cap and found rust on the connector, so I did a total tuneup w/ new rotor, cap, wires, and plugs all of which were not the cheap ones this time.
This seemed to fix it, it fired right up after the tune up and seemed to run fine.
Today I went to the parts store in it to get some parts from my Daytona, and when I was leaving it wouldn't start again.
I went in, bought a new ignition coil and installed it in the parking lot. No change, still won't start. I then swapped the TPS since it was an EZ install and was under warranty, still wouldn't start. So now I'm stranded.
Well I took the borrowed tools back into the parts store and came back out and gave it one more turn of the key, it fired, ran smooth and got me home. I've re-fired it a dozen times and seems to not be any problem now. Not getting any codes or anything.
This has come to be constant over the last few months, I'm really not too trusting of the truck getting me where I need to w/ these intermittent faults.
Not sure what to do now? any ideas where to look next?
There are no check engine codes or engine light, have used the ignition to check codes and OBD2 scanner.
A month or so later it starting doing the same thing, but only once in a while, normally when the engine was cold. After starting, if you let off the throttle, it would just die. However would start right up, but having to give it gas. I got Check Engine light and was for the TPS. I changed that and it ran like a top for about 3 weeks.
Same symptoms again, but different check engine code, this time it was the crank sensor. I changed the crank sensor on Monday which was a PITA. Truck ran like a top after the install, just like after installing the TPS. Drove it for about 200 miles Monday through Wed. this week.
Also checked all the fuses in the engine compartment, all are good.
Went out on Thursday to go somewhere and it won't start at all. It turning over, battery is new. I'm getting spark at all the plugs, I tested this w/ an inline spark plug adapter at each plug. It's like it's not firing, but I'm getting spark. I'm also getting fuel, at least I think I am cuz' I can smell it. No leaks on fuel side because of smell.
So I pulled the coil wire from the distributor cap and found rust on the connector, so I did a total tuneup w/ new rotor, cap, wires, and plugs all of which were not the cheap ones this time.
This seemed to fix it, it fired right up after the tune up and seemed to run fine.
Today I went to the parts store in it to get some parts from my Daytona, and when I was leaving it wouldn't start again.
I went in, bought a new ignition coil and installed it in the parking lot. No change, still won't start. I then swapped the TPS since it was an EZ install and was under warranty, still wouldn't start. So now I'm stranded.
Well I took the borrowed tools back into the parts store and came back out and gave it one more turn of the key, it fired, ran smooth and got me home. I've re-fired it a dozen times and seems to not be any problem now. Not getting any codes or anything.
This has come to be constant over the last few months, I'm really not too trusting of the truck getting me where I need to w/ these intermittent faults.
Not sure what to do now? any ideas where to look next?
There are no check engine codes or engine light, have used the ignition to check codes and OBD2 scanner.
I'd get a cheap pressure test gauge for the fuel to verify. Also, you could disconnect the negative battery cable first, then remove and check the connectors at the PCM. And what brand parts are you installing? Like the crank sensor for instance.
The sensors are from Autozone. I do hear the fuel pump kick on. My Ram doesn't have the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. I do have a gauge to test this, but how would I test the fuel pressure w/o a test port?
Last edited by soloflite; Nov 17, 2011 at 09:21 PM.
Hi, can you be more specific, and where I'd install it at? thanks..
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It's a special adapter. You disconnect the main fuel line where it goes into the rail, and use the T . This is the one I have. You need a gauge that has a quick disconnect.
http://www.aetools.com/star-brand/51...yslerford.html
http://www.aetools.com/star-brand/51...yslerford.html
Thanks.. What do you think about pulling the quick disconnect off of my fuel rail and putting in a pan to see if I get fuel, do you think that would be fine if careful? Not sure what the PSI would be. I'm guessing about 38psi.. I'm hearing the solenoids clicking, but not the fuel pump, should I be able to hear it from within the cab of the truck, or do I need to be back at the tank to hear it?
You need a gauge to test it. Around 49lbs is right. I'm not going to tell you to use a pan. How will that tell you the pressure anyway? You should hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds when you first turn the key. And you should be able to hear it with the door open. Or have some one turn the key while you go back and listen. Either way, even if you do hear it, it does not mean it's pumping the correct pressure.







