Bob5151 made a darn

I was incorrect in my earlier reference to 17" wheel and have edited out.

Confirmed this for my own edification at the following two links:

Wheel Specs: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/wheel/specs.htm

1995 2500s were 16" wheels. Steel/Aluminum option, which also just changed width. This remains all the way up to 2002.

Brake Specs: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/brakespecs.htm

Review the last 3 tables for 2500s. Rotor size pretty much stayed the same from 1994 to 2001.5.

Hit up a JY man!! My bad for incorrectly saying you needed 17" wheels.



Edit** Link to a thread, just resurrected, that helps confirm the caliper swap and especially makes Zman KING!!

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-upgrade.html

 

The only problem may be, that Ugly1 has aftermarket wheels. Which most likely have different backspacing, that might be an issue.

 

Fantastic!

Good stuff on the spec links.

The brake spec link is very interesting.

Note that the table specifies the 2000-2001 rotor diameter at 8.5mm larger than the rotors used in 1994-1999. Anyone know if retrofitting and using the 2000-2001 rotors on the earlier trucks is viable?

HeyYou note on the brake spec link that our year rear 3/4 ton wheel cylinders are indeed slightly smaller than the 1 ton rear wheel cylinders.

One more question: Is it easy to bolt up the whole drum assemblies from either a 1994-1999 3500 or a 2000-2001 25/3500 onto my ('95 2500 4X4) rear axle and make it work?

 

They are 16X9" alloy with a -12mm offset.

 

My first attempt at compatibility would be to call up the lame-o-ship. I don't see why they wouldn't be able to comment. Next, could the info be gathered from the respective year FSMs? Lastly, find someting at a junkyard, take pictures, measurements.

PS. find some online site that targets such things?

Sorry, spit ballin'

 

From my experience (not what I have read), I run slotted and drilled rotors and off road often with no issues at all with dirt or rocks n such getting in the rotors. Slotted drilled rotors are far superior for slow/fast speed stopping power. Oh and the rotors have not cracked or warped.

 

I'm new to RAM trucks, so this is more general than specific, but I do all my brake work and run other-than-stock brakes on most vehicles, sooner or later. Comments specific to 2nd Gen Dodge from those who know would be very much appreciated, because it's a given I'll be going there myself probably before this time next year.

I've run slotted rotors (Brembo) on trucks and had issues with shock cooling leading to rotor warping, which hasn't been an issue with cars or bikes I've used them on. But, I'm willing to listen to anyone who has experience with this particular vehicle, because that does matter.

If gassing is a problem, you can change pad compounds or cut slots in the pads themselves (standard noxious fibre warning applies if you get the file out .... don't breath brake crap, and send your kid to the baseball diamond while you're at it).

The weight of the vehicle and cargo can be reduced which will lead to better braking performance ... doesn't seem to be an option for you, though.

Dual-piston callipers are a win-win on just about any vehicle that had single-piston as stock. They don't necessarily have to add to unsprung weight and they definitely squeeze more evenly and with more total pressure. Were it me, I'd go there if it will fit.

Larger diameter rotors can improve braking ... more swept area per rotation means better stopping power. However, they have to be able to fit, which I'm no expert on with your truck. Often means moving to a larger diameter minimum rim size, again I am no expert on whether that's possible or advisable with your specific vehicle.

There's always the possibility that the brake fluid has air or moisture in it ... if the fluid is more than a couple of years old, some moisture is almost guaranteed since DOT 3/4/5.1 is hydroscopic [absorbs moisture, including from the atmosphere] so a good bleed and new fluid might well help.

Brake pads DO make a difference. Spending just a bit more than the generic ones "that fit your vehicle and meet OEM standards" can shave 10 to even 30 or more feet from your stopping time. You do want pads made specifically for a street driven heavy truck ... "racing" pads only work well when hot, not after you pull out of the driveway, and can gas a lot more than street pads, making braking with cold brakes much worse than OEM pads.

If you've been driving on the highway for 10 or more minutes without hitting the brakes hard, they're cold. Unfortunately, some of the best compounds throw a lot of brake dust on the wheels, which some people hate and won't put up with.

I'd love to hear from anyone who's used different pads on these trucks; what works best is usually pretty vehicle-specific.

I am not convinced moving from drum to disk on the rears would really help; drums are very good at slowing heavy vehicles while disks are good at stopping them ... there is a difference. I suspect, but don't know for sure, that a 1-ton slave cylinder swap, which was mentioned earlier, might be a better option overall.

If you do, however, choose to go 4-wheel disk, I would look at possibly also swapping the brake proportioning valve in the donor vehicle (provided it's the same weight class truck) because that correct ratio will be different on drum/disk and disk/disk vehicles.

Also, I seem to remember someone telling me about a load-sensitive proportioning valve on Dodge 3/4 tons, that doesn't work properly with lifted trucks; the truck "thinks" it's lightly loaded. You might want to look into that as well and see if there is a fix somehow.

 

Good info guys. Much obliged. Unfortunately I don't have the cash to make any moves at the moment but I like to toss ideas around in my head for a while before I drop too much potentially unrecoverable change on it. Maybe I could go down to a you pull it yard which has both an older truck and a newer truck and mock up my proposed mods on the older truck right there in their yard and see if I could at least get it all put together and looking right. Obviously it's in the process of physically attempting the conversion when you'd likely realize the gotchas (if there are any) assuming you don't have access to the real design drawings from Chrysler to work from.

 

SSB does offer a upgraded front twin brake caliper kit for the 94-99 4wd 1500 ram, part number A186-1. i know this is a older posting but thought i would update it.

 

Why would you go 80 down a mountain pass with you your family in the truck?