I hope the mods won't move this.
I know this is the Dodge truck section and my rig is a Jeep but it is a 5.2 out of a Dodge 2nd gen truck.

So here is the story. It is a little long but I feel I need to give you the whole story.
In 2005 I did an engine swap on my 1997 Jeep Wrangler. I used a 1998 5.2 engine and a 44RE tranny. I was just recovering from being wounded in Iraq so I had a shop do the engine swap for me. From the very start this engine never had the power it should hve had. I replaced the PCM twice seeing if it was the issue. Then the STaKs 3 speed transfer case I had installed burned up. So I thought maybe it was robbing all the power.
When I say low on power I am talking about not being able to hold 70MPH on a hill, having to slow down to 60MPH sometimes. At this time the Jeep always stayed right at 210 like it should have.
In 2006 I went to Moab and while there figured out that my plenum gasket was blown. So when I got home I pulled the intake to fix the plenum. I pulled the dist not knowing I didn't need to. When I put it all back together I started having overheating issues. So I changed the thermostat first. Still had problems. So I bought a FlowKooler water pump. Still overheating. I tried water ice or what ever that stuff is called. Still overheating. Then I installed a aluminum radiator and it helped a little but still overheating. So the last time I was out my wiring to the electric fan burnt up because it was running all the time. So now the Jeep has sat for a year waiting for me to rebuild a 360 I had picked up. Am planning on doing a stroker build on it once I have the funds. Should be this spring I think.

So my question is this, I have just heard about having to sync the dist for fuel and timing at the dealership if you had the dist out. So is this something that could have caused my Jeep to overheat like it has been? I have even had the thing at the dealer to have the TV cable replaced and they never said anything about this.

Thoughts?

 

I am not sure if fuel sync would cause overheating, but may explain loss of power. Dealer can set fuel sync, but another shop with the correct computer can do it also. At least it may solve one of the problems.

I also wonder what differences there are between the Jeep PCM and the Ram PCM with one year difference.

 

Fuel sync might cause it to run a little warmer, but, not to the extent you have been experiencing. I would suggest measuring the current radiator, (the actual finned part, ignore the tanks) and post those up, and compare them to the dodge truck radiators.

Good chance your cat is plugging up as well, provided you still have one. Another casualty of a blown plenum is the pre-cat O2 sensor, which plays a BIG role in power/economy. Fuel sync will play role here as well. Getting it reset isn't too much of an ordeal.

The 44RE is going to be inadequate for a 360. And most certainly not for any warmed up 360, let alone a stroker..... you will smoke the trans in short order. 46RE is the best you can do unfortunately, and stock, they weren't the best either. Best to upgrade at the very least the torque converter. A complete rebuild with some heavy duty parts would be an excellent idea.

These engines are also notoriously hard to get all the air out of 'em. In a Jeep, I would think that would be less of an issue, but hey, ya never know.

What's the flow rate on your e-fan? It might just be that it simply doesn't flow enough air to cool the engine. What was the original engine? 4.0 straight six??

 

I had a clogged cat and have a new one in there now. Thought that was going to cure all my issues too. The BIG thing is that it use to cool just fine with the FIRST radiator I had in it. So upgrading to the aluminum radiator shoud have really cured any cooling issues but it didn't.

I am running a Dodge PCM not the Jeep one. I don't know what the flow rate is of the fan but it is a Spal fan which is one of the best on the market.

I know the 44RE won't stand up to the 408. Already plan on swapping in the tranny from PATC thinking a Viper lever 2 or 3 should do it.

So you don't feel the fuel sync would cause the thing to overheat? What I can't figure out is that it only started doing this after I had pulled the intake to fix the plenum. And I have had it back a part to see if it was a gasket that slipped or something.

I have a Hughes intake for the 408 and EQ heads with big valves.
My Jeep is geared with 5.13 gears and 38" tires. I am running around 2,800 RPM's at 70 MPH.

 

Possible blown headgasket? Or cracked head? Losing any coolant? Does the cooling system pressurize IMMEDIATELY on startup?

 

HeyYou,
Last time I did a compression test they all tested good so if it is a blown head gasket it is hiding. I want to say I had 150-160 on all cylinders.

How would I check for a cracked head other than to take it apart?

No the cooling system doesn't pressurize immediately and I can't tell you if it is using coolant because when it gets hot it boils over.

It gets hot when it is under a load or when just cruising. I think it could be a cracked head that only shows the crack once it gets hot? I have been pulling my hair out now for 3 years trying to figure this thing out.

That is the reason to just build a 408 that I know is good and install it. Just have to gather all the funds. Plus I live in the sticks so I have to drive about 90 miles to find a machine shop. When it comes time to do the 408 I will for sure be on here. I have read a few of the threads on the 408 so far and am trying to gather all the info I can.

 

It sounds crazy, but have you checked your radiator cap? I have had that happen to me twice, caused a lot of problems.

 

He brings up a valid point. A faulty cap will indeed let the radiator boil over.

Do you want to get it running with the current engine while you build the stroker? If so, I would put the hughes manifold on there, and get an SCT tuner for the PCM.

 

I have a Spal 2 speed fan controller so at 185* it comes on at 50% and then at 205* it comes on 100%. I can change the temps the fans come on at. This new aluminum radiator I added really helps but I am just putting a bandaid on the problem.

 

I have put 2 new radiator caps on thinking it could be the issue too.

If I could get it running that would be great but I really am tired of farting with the thing.
I have had one of my PCM's modified by B&G for a performance 5.2. I am running headers, cold air intake, 52mm throttle body, performance coil. So they reflashed my PCM for me about a two years ago. Still didn't help.