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extra money guess its 408 time

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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:13 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dipsherry
i was thinking a bigger cam and looseing the 1.7s what would you reccomend only place i know who makes cams anymore is hughs and i dont wanna wait 6 months to build this motor
http://stores.hi-potek.com/StoreFront.bok

They sell cams. Or you can PM B1llyW on BionicDodge (Former owner of KRC) and ask him of some specs that he used to sell, and he will let you know so you can call COmp Cams and have it ground that way. OR you can call Mopar Performance and they can grind you a cam. Lots of people make camshafts, you just have to provide the info.

Or you can to to BionicDodge Magnum section and talk to the guys there. You would be surprised of how many guys are on that forum own their own shops and stores. ABout 6 that I know off the top of my head.

Also, I would not even do this since you have OBD1.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #42  
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yeah all parts i have listed are already ordered....just finished up today with freeze plugs oil pump all arp bold main girdle flexplate and aps transmission
so i am in this whole thing for $7987.43 for that price i could of just got a cumming lol. But i always dreamed of a truck like this so i figured why not build it that i have the funds.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Adobedude
- It's the Eagle Cast cranks that break, Eagle forged are fine.
- Eagle SRP rods are junk. Get Eagle H beams.
- If you're not spraying, get Hyper pistons, plenty good for a street motor.
- If you go bigger than a 55x52 TB, get a 4bbl M1 and use the 2bbl adaptor, don't bother with any 4bbl TTB.
- You CAN run adjustable 1.7's on a cam, just get the cam ground for the ratio. I did for years...Motor saw 7000+ rpm numerous times, no problem. Like any cam, you need to get an adjustable push rod a check your valve train geometry, oreder the correct length push rods.
- Mancini has Mopar cast stroker cranks for 300.00 bucks, great crank. Not like the Eagle cast crank.

I'm building a 11.5:1 408. Eagle forged crank, H beams, forged pistons, maxed out and decked Eddy heads...Mopar M1 4bbl with 2bbl adaptor, 58 tb, 248/252 .600 lift cam....blaa blaa blaa.

BTW: Eddy heads are not 58cc, they are more like 63cc, I had .030 shved from the to get 57.5cc, so your compression will less if you've used their advertised 53cc.

Call Richard at Hypotec for a cam....Why bother with Hughes at all?
Thanks for the info and peace of mind. I got the competion kit so it has forged h beam rods the forged crank and dish top pistons. I will be happy with comp around 9.5 or 10 nothing to crazy as this truck is my daily driver when its raining and i cant ride my bikes. i plan on this motor barley ever seeing 6k so i should be ok. i figure a 2bbl with the 53mm tb will be plenty of air for my build. its a 5600lb truck on 37's not like its ever gonna be fast
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by dipsherry
Thanks for the info and peace of mind. I got the competion kit so it has forged h beam rods the forged crank and dish top pistons. I will be happy with comp around 9.5 or 10 nothing to crazy as this truck is my daily driver when its raining and i cant ride my bikes. i plan on this motor barley ever seeing 6k so i should be ok. i figure a 2bbl with the 53mm tb will be plenty of air for my build. its a 5600lb truck on 37's not like its ever gonna be fast
You'll fine, get a cam for torque...

I'm also gathering parts for a cheap 408 torque monster for my 98 Ram 2500...It's my tow vehicle.

The Dakota gets all the good stuff, I might even use the stock rods with the Ram 408. It's lucky to even see 4500 rpm, so beer barrel etc are staying on it.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:38 AM
  #45  
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Are these heads any good? I never see anyone recommending them, or even talking about them...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-RHS-5-...ht_1358wt_1396
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #46  
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Hey dipsherry, any chance of posting a pic? I'd LOVE to see a couple.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #47  
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Listen to Adobe, he knows his stuff, and helped me throughout my build as well.

Is there anyway you can toss out the Edelbrocks in favor of some Iron Ram or R/T 1.92's? The money you'd save would get you a nice port/polish job. 1.92's are better suited for this build as well.

You'll be fine with the Eagle forged, the cast cranks are the boogers.

Hughes Engines, REGARDLESS, of what some might say treated me very well. You can find just about ANYTHING you will need, including ARP Fasteners. Be sure to get head studs instead of bolts.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by J415
Hey dipsherry, any chance of posting a pic? I'd LOVE to see a couple.
yeah all i have now is the 5.9 block waiting on parts to start coming in then it will be pic time
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by matty675
Listen to Adobe, he knows his stuff, and helped me throughout my build as well.

Is there anyway you can toss out the Edelbrocks in favor of some Iron Ram or R/T 1.92's? The money you'd save would get you a nice port/polish job. 1.92's are better suited for this build as well.

You'll be fine with the Eagle forged, the cast cranks are the boogers.

Hughes Engines, REGARDLESS, of what some might say treated me very well. You can find just about ANYTHING you will need, including ARP Fasteners. Be sure to get head studs instead of bolts.
no chance of getting different heads. i went with the eddys cause they already had 2.02 valves and save a little weight compared to iron....might of went the wrong route there. oh well we live and learn. If i come across a set of r/t's i will prolly pic them up. hughes is where i am getting all my fasteners and main girdle
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #50  
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Matty, do you really need head studs over head bolts in a non-boost application? I had APR 12 point studs on my camaro and those suckers cost about a GRAND!!! I can't believe I spent that much on fasteners.
 
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