Time for a rebuild

 

Thanks for the thread info.

 

So what is that odds that I can fix/replace whatever is broken at home? Should i even try and get to the crank or just opt for a new motor? I'm not trying to tow to a shop unless its to swap motors cuz it will cost twice as much after they look at it and decide to swap motors.

I'm gonna pull the other valve cover now and then the oil pan. See what i can find.

Thanks for input. I'll be posting frequently lol

 

If the crank is screwed up, which is a very real possibility, I would just go directly to another motor. Replacing the crank, or, yanking yours, and having it turned, and then going to undersize bearings, would cost some pretty hefty coin, and still leave you with an 80K mile plus motor......

That said, you could conceivably swap the crank in your driveway... but, a rod replacement is going to require yanking a head as well. You are going to have most of the engine ripped apart anyway.... might just as well go for a full rebuild. (see above. )

Drop the pan, see what ya got. I suspect it is going to be patently obvious.

 

enough of this engine stuff... let's discuss this distraction some more, shall we?

good luck working on the rotating assembly at home.. unless you're outfitted to do so.. I reckon it can be done with the engine mounted, but that is an aggravation I certainly wouldn't look forward to..

 

Tell me bout it. With what I just found from the bottom end, I don't want to think about this truck lol. Expected but unfortunate.

 

don't try to disassemble valves or springs.

the purpose of removing the valve covers is that a) it easy and b) it allows you to inspect the valve train looking for a bent push rod or broken rocker or broken valve or anything else unusual. do remove valve covers.

crank revolutions - this is important. mark the crank pulley with some chalk or marker or paint. observe how many revolutions or partial revolutions the crank pulley makes from lock to lock. the number of times you turn the wrench is irrelevant. at the lock points - check the valve action and listen closely for a CLACK noise and note where its coming from - as in the top (valves), center (cam), front (timing chain) or bottom (crank).

if nothing obvious, remove the starter, braces, dust cover, and oil pan and repeat the crank turn test. the objective is to figure out whats hitting what.

 

Thanks for the reply vaughan but I found the prob. Now I'm wondering the cause. has to be crank failure of some sort.

 

what's the exact problem? (besides the engine being locked up)

 

Alright guys. I pulled the oil pan with some gifts laying in it. I took many pics and will try and post. Doubt i can, all I have is my phone with me.

Every cylinder except the front two have, basically, no parts anymore. Four pistons are shattered and the seals are all hanging or in the pan. Not sure what caused this, especially all at once. There were no previous signs.

Thanks for the inputs. Now I'm moving on to a replacement. Either crate or remanufactured. If you guys know of anything please let me know. I'm ready to buy now. I have two weeks off still so want to get this done. I'm fully expecting my tranny to need rebuilt immediately after fixing this, just because of my luck lol and the mileage around 80k.