Question about oil
First thing I do when I buy a vehicle is change the oil filter and switch to Synthetic. I buy nothing but used vehicles and generally they have about 120,000 or more miles on the clock. I use 0W-40 year round, change at 7500 mi and always a new filter.
ZeroWinter oil flows below freezing like it was a sunny day in July. I dont know how you could "cause" or "expose" leaks any better. Its never been a problem for me except with valve cover gaskets. Easy to fix and away you go.
What do i gain by running Synthetic? Dino can't be formulated in winter weight below 5W and remember that with conventional oil the winter weight is all via viscosity improver additives, and all additive packages break down and are used up over time. The true weight is the 2nd number ... 10W-30 is 30 weight oil with viscosity improveds to pour like 10 weight when cold. You can easily tell old oil here via a look at the dipstick in winter because it looks feels and drips like straight 30 or whatever ... Because that's what it has become. Synthetic doesnt thicken up as the oil wears and i can run a -40 syn base and get good pressure ability for main beArings ans still get full pressure starts below freezing.
ZeroWinter oil flows below freezing like it was a sunny day in July. I dont know how you could "cause" or "expose" leaks any better. Its never been a problem for me except with valve cover gaskets. Easy to fix and away you go.
What do i gain by running Synthetic? Dino can't be formulated in winter weight below 5W and remember that with conventional oil the winter weight is all via viscosity improver additives, and all additive packages break down and are used up over time. The true weight is the 2nd number ... 10W-30 is 30 weight oil with viscosity improveds to pour like 10 weight when cold. You can easily tell old oil here via a look at the dipstick in winter because it looks feels and drips like straight 30 or whatever ... Because that's what it has become. Synthetic doesnt thicken up as the oil wears and i can run a -40 syn base and get good pressure ability for main beArings ans still get full pressure starts below freezing.
Last edited by Johnny2Bad; Jan 1, 2012 at 01:03 PM.
if you want some good reading on motor oil there is a thread in the FAQ section
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...tor-oil-6.html
i have read lots of good things about royal purples motor oil.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...tor-oil-6.html
i have read lots of good things about royal purples motor oil.
To answer a valid question here; I'm just now switching to Mobil 1 and my reason is purely to get off conventional oil dependence. Nothing more. Performance aspects are nil, from what I've looked at, or better yet, immeasurable to quantify of any significant benefit for these beasts.
Now this stuff isn't going in for a good few more days though....
Now this stuff isn't going in for a good few more days though....
Now this stuff isn't going in for a good few more days though....
Yes sir. So then when does it end or what % remains dino?
(now that post order is messing me up. you quoted me before my post shows up. Didn't we tell you to stop that? lol)
(now that post order is messing me up. you quoted me before my post shows up. Didn't we tell you to stop that? lol)
Iv'e said it before, and I'll say it again. Dino's are so much more advanced then the old days, that they are pretty much as good as synthetic now. It's simply not worth the extra money IMO. I've gone back to using quality oil like Valvoline and Castrol for instance. And that 1 quart of Rislone also works wonders.
You can get synthetic castrol oil for $23 with a filter (after rebate) and you can get good conventional for $17. For me it's worth the six bucks and I believe it makes my truck runs better (I'm a sucker for advertisement
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Yea, was just about to hit the edit button. I bet thats a Fram filter.
Quality paint and a quality brush.








