Cam change in progress w/pics.
ckeama, or something like that, wrote up a thread once to do with this.. pretty enlightening.. the basic issue was something Aim4, uh, aimed at..
the connector 'blades' on some injectors/connectors are out of spec.. they are just a touch too narrow, and it causes funky things to happen. we're talking very slight tolerances you would think wouldn't matter.. they apparently do matter..
I think he actually altered the pins if I recall correctly, and 'fixed' the issue.. whodathunkit?
just thought I'd add that.. dunno that it matters, but it's worth repeating.
the connector 'blades' on some injectors/connectors are out of spec.. they are just a touch too narrow, and it causes funky things to happen. we're talking very slight tolerances you would think wouldn't matter.. they apparently do matter..
I think he actually altered the pins if I recall correctly, and 'fixed' the issue.. whodathunkit?
just thought I'd add that.. dunno that it matters, but it's worth repeating.
I would try and fix the miss first...... I suspect that you aren't getting fuel there... so, that's not all that much of an issue. There are individual grounds for each injector, sequential fuel injection after all.
Check the wire from the injector, to the PCM first......
Check the wire from the injector, to the PCM first......


Fosho there ain't no fuel getting in there! With my forward thinking I bought a new injector at lunch time from Napa.
Running now w/ no codes. Took her for a short spin just to squeak around. Nothing broke our sounded inordinate. Of course, its been exactly 3 weeks (tomorrow) that it has not run.
So gotta finish some misc stuff of the body lift. Get a fuel sync done, which by the way, is this something that is optimized or I the owner provide input to? Yea, I'm not too clear on this.
Get the PCM to learn on this tank of gas.
Then pop my superchips tuner on and see how we are....
Oh and here are pics of my previous plugs. They all came out dry. Ignore the oil seen on #5. That was a result of overspill of oil on the rockers. They were gaped at something like 0.06.




Quote; Get a fuel sync done, which by the way, is this something that is optimized or I the owner provide input to? Yea, I'm not too clear on this.
The severvice tech will set fuel sync at 0 there is a window to move it up or down but in your case 0 will be opt. All it does is trigger the injector early or later from tdc comp or ignition/spark. This is a basic way of describing it.
The severvice tech will set fuel sync at 0 there is a window to move it up or down but in your case 0 will be opt. All it does is trigger the injector early or later from tdc comp or ignition/spark. This is a basic way of describing it.
Last edited by merc225hp; Jan 17, 2012 at 02:11 AM.
If you're paying to have the fuel sync set, set it at 0 and forget all about it.
If you have your own scanner and can set the fuel sync by yourself experiment from -2 to about +6 in 2 unit increments and see where she runs best.
Be aware, there's no +2 setting, the numbers will bounce between a 3 or even 4 number swing, you're just setting the average.
If you have your own scanner and can set the fuel sync by yourself experiment from -2 to about +6 in 2 unit increments and see where she runs best.
Be aware, there's no +2 setting, the numbers will bounce between a 3 or even 4 number swing, you're just setting the average.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; Jan 17, 2012 at 08:23 AM.
Quote; Get a fuel sync done, which by the way, is this something that is optimized or I the owner provide input to? Yea, I'm not too clear on this.
The severvice tech will set fuel sync at 0 there is a window to move it up or down but in your case 0 will be opt. All it does is trigger the injector early or later from tdc comp or ignition/spark. This is a basic way of describing it.
The severvice tech will set fuel sync at 0 there is a window to move it up or down but in your case 0 will be opt. All it does is trigger the injector early or later from tdc comp or ignition/spark. This is a basic way of describing it.
If you're paying to have the fuel sync set, set it at 0 and forget all about it.
If you have your own scanner and can set the fuel sync by yourself experiment from -2 to about +6 in 2 unit increments and see where she runs best.
Be aware, there's no +2 setting, the numbers will bounce between a 3 or even 4 number swing, you're just setting the average.
If you have your own scanner and can set the fuel sync by yourself experiment from -2 to about +6 in 2 unit increments and see where she runs best.
Be aware, there's no +2 setting, the numbers will bounce between a 3 or even 4 number swing, you're just setting the average.
With the new cam, you might very well need the custom tuning SCT provides.
Too much duro and/or lift requires more timing advance to burn up all the extra fuel. If you start to see codes for fueling, or random misfire codes, you might want to spring for it.
Too much duro and/or lift requires more timing advance to burn up all the extra fuel. If you start to see codes for fueling, or random misfire codes, you might want to spring for it.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; Jan 17, 2012 at 09:43 PM.
SCT is not the only custom tuning place though. Yes...I see I'm running rich. Oh my. lol However, no codes, no misfires, nothing. Granted its only been 90 miles, started with full tank.
This started to wake up yesterday afternoon. I can now note a more warbly sound, more bump at idle, and coming on acceleration is smooth and longer lasting. Passing, previously, has not been too disappointing, but now... SONVA beeeznitch! It just wants to keep rolling. So, its learning alright. Additionally, I'm getting used to the 3" BL. Moreover, my aerodynamic brick is "feels, perceptionally" unaffected or inhibiting to the innards.
Some things I learned yesterday in trying to find a place to do fuel sync. Couple independent shops were like...
Shop 1: "what? um, i have to check our tool and not sure how to do it even if it can." Called me back later. "nope ours can't do it, sorry." <--- most likely didn't have a Chrysler key.
Shop 2: "what? Oh, cam timing. Ok yeah I know. That'll be $160 and half day so drop it off." <-- canceled that appointment later in the day.
Mopar Performance: "No I've never heard of that. If you have your timing physically set with all 3 things (crank, cam, distributor) and you're not having any issues, then you should be fine. You have the R/T cam, that we used to sell through Crane before they closed. They reopened and we just haven't rejoined back up with them. I'd go Mopar PCM from BG Chrysler."
Dodge Parts guy local to me: "Yea I'm not aware of that, but i'll talk to our service tech, but as long as your close you should be fine. <from service tech 1> as long as within 2-4* and no issues you should be fine. <end> I'll talk to our Master tech in the morning and call you back.
This was just kinda odd to get this flavor of feedback. Exciting though as it's filling up my sponge. Apparently I wasn't clear enough to state that I completely removed the rotor shaft and dist. housing. More of this makes sense to me now. So I'll hear today.
btw -- I still have to put the new O2 sensors in.
This started to wake up yesterday afternoon. I can now note a more warbly sound, more bump at idle, and coming on acceleration is smooth and longer lasting. Passing, previously, has not been too disappointing, but now... SONVA beeeznitch! It just wants to keep rolling. So, its learning alright. Additionally, I'm getting used to the 3" BL. Moreover, my aerodynamic brick is "feels, perceptionally" unaffected or inhibiting to the innards.
Some things I learned yesterday in trying to find a place to do fuel sync. Couple independent shops were like...
Shop 1: "what? um, i have to check our tool and not sure how to do it even if it can." Called me back later. "nope ours can't do it, sorry." <--- most likely didn't have a Chrysler key.
Shop 2: "what? Oh, cam timing. Ok yeah I know. That'll be $160 and half day so drop it off." <-- canceled that appointment later in the day.
Mopar Performance: "No I've never heard of that. If you have your timing physically set with all 3 things (crank, cam, distributor) and you're not having any issues, then you should be fine. You have the R/T cam, that we used to sell through Crane before they closed. They reopened and we just haven't rejoined back up with them. I'd go Mopar PCM from BG Chrysler."
Dodge Parts guy local to me: "Yea I'm not aware of that, but i'll talk to our service tech, but as long as your close you should be fine. <from service tech 1> as long as within 2-4* and no issues you should be fine. <end> I'll talk to our Master tech in the morning and call you back.
This was just kinda odd to get this flavor of feedback. Exciting though as it's filling up my sponge. Apparently I wasn't clear enough to state that I completely removed the rotor shaft and dist. housing. More of this makes sense to me now. So I'll hear today.
btw -- I still have to put the new O2 sensors in.







