Cam change in progress w/pics.
Thread Starter
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Verify power at that injector. Get a noid lite, and see if you have injector pulse. (provided you have power.) PCM provides ground to the injector circuit, make sure connections at PCM are clean, and tight. Verify continuity of ground wire for the injector as well. Check resistance of the injector.... (especially if you are getting pulse on the noid lite.)
Noid lite will verify injector pulse? Can you direct me to where/how to do that?
I'll recheck PCM connections at the box. This was untouched.
Ground continuity for injector check on the list.
What should the resistance be and how should this be properly done?
Thanks
Is this something I can have my local shop do as this has crossed my mind in terms of efficiency. LOL
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,415
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
I would try and fix the miss first...... I suspect that you aren't getting fuel there... so, that's not all that much of an issue. There are individual grounds for each injector, sequential fuel injection after all. 
Check the wire from the injector, to the PCM first......
Check the wire from the injector, to the PCM first......
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,415
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Power was checked using a multimeter.
Noid lite will verify injector pulse? Can you direct me to where/how to do that? Yep. All it is is a little light, that plugs into the injector connector, in place of the injector. Crank motor, see if light flashes.
I'll recheck PCM connections at the box. This was untouched.
Ground continuity for injector check on the list. Noid lite will verify the circuit.
What should the resistance be and how should this be properly done? 12 to 16 ohms? I think???
Thanks
Is this something I can have my local shop do as this has crossed my mind in terms of efficiency. LOL
Noid lite will verify injector pulse? Can you direct me to where/how to do that? Yep. All it is is a little light, that plugs into the injector connector, in place of the injector. Crank motor, see if light flashes.
I'll recheck PCM connections at the box. This was untouched.
Ground continuity for injector check on the list. Noid lite will verify the circuit.
What should the resistance be and how should this be properly done? 12 to 16 ohms? I think???
Thanks
Is this something I can have my local shop do as this has crossed my mind in terms of efficiency. LOL
They will just want money. You can do it for the cost of the tools. (which in the over all scheme of things, really isn't that much. Noid lights are cheap.)
Thread Starter
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Noid Lite?
Roger that, but my shop has been very accommodating. Sometimes no charges at all. I wanted to pay them for pressing in the front seal of the timing cover. They were like..."pfffft, we see you and just bring the finished thing in here so we can check it out!"
Just a consideration.
Roger that, but my shop has been very accommodating. Sometimes no charges at all. I wanted to pay them for pressing in the front seal of the timing cover. They were like..."pfffft, we see you and just bring the finished thing in here so we can check it out!"
Just a consideration.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
List of grounds i can recall:
One off PCM to firewall/frame.
One off passenger valve cover
One off passenger head in the back, believe it connects to same one as the PCM, but can't recall.
One off driver's head to firewall
One that connects to PS pump stud that hooks the drivers side injector harness down, check this one carefully, the heavy ground for the alt/starter connects here as well.
one off the battery that connects to the frame near the washer reservoir.
2 small ones for the wiper motors on the firewall but these shouldn't be the problem.
Check them all for clean connections. I even cleaned the paint off the firewall where they touch with a wire wheel and it seemed as though the idle smoothed out.
One off PCM to firewall/frame.
One off passenger valve cover
One off passenger head in the back, believe it connects to same one as the PCM, but can't recall.
One off driver's head to firewall
One that connects to PS pump stud that hooks the drivers side injector harness down, check this one carefully, the heavy ground for the alt/starter connects here as well.
one off the battery that connects to the frame near the washer reservoir.
2 small ones for the wiper motors on the firewall but these shouldn't be the problem.
Check them all for clean connections. I even cleaned the paint off the firewall where they touch with a wire wheel and it seemed as though the idle smoothed out.
Thread Starter
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Ok, I have to say this is a fuggin' gold star post. Thanks for this aim! See my replies within yours to add to the story.
Indeed we did not clean paint off. Thought that threads in hole was sufficient. So will follow your experience here. 
What I'm glad about is that you didn't mention any that I wasn't aware of. whew.
List of grounds i can recall:
One off PCM to firewall/frame. -- I will reseat this for the hell of it. This one was redrilled lower on the firewall due to 3" bodylift.
One off passenger valve cover -- Yes I caught that one. Its on a VC stud in the back on the valley side. I put on new VC studs, so will reseat.
One off passenger head in the back, believe it connects to same one as the PCM, but can't recall. -- Yes this is correct. Will double check and reseat. This one was redrilled lower on the firewall due to 3" bodylift.
One off driver's head to firewall -- This one was redrilled lower on the firewall due to 3" bodylift.
One that connects to PS pump stud that hooks the drivers side injector harness down, check this one carefully, the heavy ground for the alt/starter connects here as well. -- Will double check and reseat.
one off the battery that connects to the frame near the washer reservoir.
2 small ones for the wiper motors on the firewall but these shouldn't be the problem. -- Will double check and reseat.
Check them all for clean connections. I even cleaned the paint off the firewall where they touch with a wire wheel and it seemed as though the idle smoothed out.
One off PCM to firewall/frame. -- I will reseat this for the hell of it. This one was redrilled lower on the firewall due to 3" bodylift.
One off passenger valve cover -- Yes I caught that one. Its on a VC stud in the back on the valley side. I put on new VC studs, so will reseat.
One off passenger head in the back, believe it connects to same one as the PCM, but can't recall. -- Yes this is correct. Will double check and reseat. This one was redrilled lower on the firewall due to 3" bodylift.
One off driver's head to firewall -- This one was redrilled lower on the firewall due to 3" bodylift.
One that connects to PS pump stud that hooks the drivers side injector harness down, check this one carefully, the heavy ground for the alt/starter connects here as well. -- Will double check and reseat.
one off the battery that connects to the frame near the washer reservoir.
2 small ones for the wiper motors on the firewall but these shouldn't be the problem. -- Will double check and reseat.
Check them all for clean connections. I even cleaned the paint off the firewall where they touch with a wire wheel and it seemed as though the idle smoothed out.
What I'm glad about is that you didn't mention any that I wasn't aware of. whew.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
Oh one other thing,
Is the injector clip on #5 broken by any chance? I broke a few the first time i removed mine and that caused an issue for me once. I had to splice in a new connector. Might want to check the connection as well, if it slides on really easily, the prongs in the injector might be making a weak connection with the injector clip.
Is the injector clip on #5 broken by any chance? I broke a few the first time i removed mine and that caused an issue for me once. I had to splice in a new connector. Might want to check the connection as well, if it slides on really easily, the prongs in the injector might be making a weak connection with the injector clip.
Thread Starter
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Oh one other thing,
Is the injector clip on #5 broken by any chance? I broke a few the first time i removed mine and that caused an issue for me once. I had to splice in a new connector. Might want to check the connection as well, if it slides on really easily, the prongs in the injector might be making a weak connection with the injector clip.
Is the injector clip on #5 broken by any chance? I broke a few the first time i removed mine and that caused an issue for me once. I had to splice in a new connector. Might want to check the connection as well, if it slides on really easily, the prongs in the injector might be making a weak connection with the injector clip.
****! Easily rule this out by having someone apply pressure to the connector....
