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dana 60 f/r swap time!

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:14 PM
  #11  
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I pretty sure it will bolt to the TC, but again, length is an issue.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:37 PM
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is the front drive shaft going to be too short, or too long? too long, and ill see if i can get the front d-shaft with the front axle. too short...i should be ok, because i have about 5 inches of travel before it pops off the slip shaft.

rear shaft... ill see if i can get the rear driveshaft as well, and swap over my current slip shaft.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Are you talking about after you install a d60 front axle?(the shaft will be shorter) Or just swap to a 241 TC?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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well im waiting on a phone call back from the guy im getting the axles from. gonna see if he will throw in a f/r d-shaft from a quad cab short bed 3/4 ton. would make my swap much easier. then ill just swap my slip yoke over to the 3/4 ton d-shaft and call it a day....
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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Long time reader of this forum first time poster. I'm in the middle of a 60 swap myself so I figured I would chime in. I finished up the rear end the other day short of taking my new Chinese brake drums to get turned on account that they were out of round out of the box. Stay away from autozone for brake parts everything I got when building my 60 had problems and had to be modified or didn't fit right.
I switched spring perches to monroe 2.5's I did think of notching but though it best to just replace. The stock 60 perches are way beefy and a bitch to cut off. In hindsight I would have just notched them. The rear driveshaft fit perfectly the 60's yoke was a 1410 so I changed it to a 1350 ubolt yoke style which is strounger. Still had to run a combi joint as I learned my driveshaft was 1330 stock. Whoops! Same dimentions but different slightly smaller cap size. While I was in there I also did a long add a leaf from general springkc to give it some lift and a little more weight capacity. I did have to replace a bearing just inside the CAD for the inner drive shaft which is a Timken J228 just in case you need to do the same. I had to take it to a bearing company to figure it out since my local dealer had no clue.
I have a few questions myself. Can I reuse my 01 1500 control arms or should I get 2500 arms for the 99 d 60 I have.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by elshauno
Long time reader of this forum first time poster. I'm in the middle of a 60 swap myself so I figured I would chime in. I finished up the rear end the other day short of taking my new Chinese brake drums to get turned on account that they were out of round out of the box. Stay away from autozone for brake parts everything I got when building my 60 had problems and had to be modified or didn't fit right.
I switched spring perches to monroe 2.5's I did think of notching but though it best to just replace. The stock 60 perches are way beefy and a bitch to cut off. In hindsight I would have just notched them. The rear driveshaft fit perfectly the 60's yoke was a 1410 so I changed it to a 1350 ubolt yoke style which is strounger. Still had to run a combi joint as I learned my driveshaft was 1330 stock. Whoops! Same dimentions but different slightly smaller cap size. While I was in there I also did a long add a leaf from general springkc to give it some lift and a little more weight capacity. I did have to replace a bearing just inside the CAD for the inner drive shaft which is a Timken J228 just in case you need to do the same. I had to take it to a bearing company to figure it out since my local dealer had no clue.
I have a few questions myself. Can I reuse my 01 1500 control arms or should I get 2500 arms for the 99 d 60 I have.
is your truck a single cab, or quad cab? also... what was the part number on the rear u-joint, and pinion yoke you replaced for the rear axle?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 04:58 PM
  #17  
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I have a quad cab and I used a neapco 1330 to 1350 combination u joint. I would have rather just gone straight 1330 but I didn't measure properly. Since these axles and driveshafts differ so much from year to year, you really need to figure out what you have on your truck. Heres a page that will tell you the dimensions of the ujoints it might have and teach you more about ujoints //www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm You will need a 29 spline pinion yoke on your 60 most likely a 1330 strap style will be all you need. But you will only need it if you keep your stock driveshaft. Also replace the pinion seal and a new pinion nut also if you change the yoke.
1330 Series...Spicer Maintenance Free U joint
Part #:11-202258
1330 series Dana 60 Pinion Yoke 29 spline
Part #:9191554
One more thing dont over torque the straps they only need 13 footpounds otherwise they can distort and crush your ujoint caps
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #18  
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well some bad news tonight. talked to the guy again, and in order to get these axles i have to drive 300~ miles to him with my old plow.... gaaaaah why cant anything go my way. he was going to include all 4 rims too..... oh well, maybe i can find a set with 4.10's on craigs for cheap that are closer.....
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Throw the plow in the bed. Go for a cruise. Have your girlfriend come along, and all it a "road trip".......
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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thats a long 5+ hour drive...cant afford the gas for that... gonna take 2+ tanks for the whole trip.... plus i dont have overdrive, and its all interstate 95 driving to the canadian border.....
 
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