At idle, if it sucks too much of the seafoam, the mixture simply won't burn. So, the engine stops. (Its challenging to keep the engine running at idle when feeding it seafoam. That's why I had the teenager hold the engine at 1500 RPM.) So, when you want it to stall, just let the engine drop down to normal idle speed, and feed the vacuum line into the can far enough, and the engine will quit. Let it sit for ten minutes or so, and fire it back up. (vacuum line OUT of can.)

 

Okay that makes sense, ill give it a whirl tomorrow and ill let ya know how it works.

 

I have some ping to and I've done just about everything cept the timing chain , immget it done and hope that's the fix , at 150k I'm sire it is .

Also if you have a clogged cat that may cause it also

 

Yea i know its not a clogged cat, i changed it a few months before i did the plenum and it had only just started burning a little oil before i did the plenum, i might try a new o2 since i think mines still the original one.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong fellas, but cork gaskets aren't suppose have any rtv on them. They work by soaking up oil and swelling to fill up the gaps. You might have some issues down the road (no pun intended).

 

Yea, im sorta curious to that too, i mean my dad helped me and has 20+ years working on engines of all sorts, and he didnt think twice about doing it, so im pretty confident in it, but ill have to keep an eye on it.

 

So i seafoamed my truck today, and i tried to stall it by just pouring to much in to quick, and it would not stall it out, it had to have been at like 100 rpms, but it would not stop turning over haha, so i pulled the coil wire and got one hell of a jolt and it shut off lol.

It seems to idle a bit smoother and i think it quited the pinging up a little, but the noises are still there.

 

Your not sopposed to let it die by putting it I. , you sopposed to put it in then cut the motor and let it sit .

I reccomend changing out the plugs to autolight 3923 and change to a180 stat and possibly a ngk o2 sensor

 

Im not changing to a 180 t stat, im not running a tuner or anything, and chrysler put a 195 t stat in their for a reason

I was just going by what Heyyou said in a previous post.

 

snake oil in a can won't solve your rattling problem. You need a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint where the noise is first, whether top or bottom end. Typical reasons for the marble in a can sound is loose timing belt/chain due to bad tensioner or guides, or an egr valve that isn't opening or has a plugged/disconnected vacuum line going to it causing preignition in your engine