TPS maybe? The Haynes or the free FSM download from the FAQ/DIY section will give you the test procedure.

And just because you have a gutted cat does not mean the o2 is good.

 

ill need to get a mulitmeter which i dont possess... someone stole mine. i replaced down stream not but a month ago... maybe need new upper and lower?

 

Is it worse around 45 MPH?

 

kinda but bad either way.. till 60mph

 

What brand plugs/wires did you get? What kind of plugs? Did you route the wires per the TSB? (in the faq section, if you need it.)

What is your temp gauge telling you? Does it seem to be reasonably accurate?

Sounds a lot like you have a miss or three in there......

 

plugs champion copper plus # 436 , autolite profess. # 96634 Wires are routed like stated in TSB. Brand new thermo. 185 degree. temp guage never goes past half. seems accurate. i did relize my radiator cap is leaking now.. need to replace.. other then that.. i have no idea,..

I think i did fix the cold start issue with taking out IAC spraying the S*** out of it with brake cleaner & then disconnect of the neg cable on the battery turned key forward for 5 min re-connected and it started perfect. cold idle was around 900+/- 50rpm. Now my gas guage i dont think is reading proper or i used that much gas earlier trying to figure these Problems out. cuz it dont even move when u turn the key on. have to go to the gas station and test drive to see maybe if the other problem might be resolved..

 

If it still misses and such, try disconnecting the pre-cat O2 sensor, and take it for a drive. They tend to be casualties of a blown plenum as well. Not to mention that they just don't last forever.

 

I had the same symptoms as you and changing out my ignition coil (and waiting for the computer to adjust) fixed it. Although these symptoms can be universal to a few things, I'd also at least do a visual inspection, and if you get the multi meter test it as well. I figured mine was bad because the metal "plates" on the coil were bending by themselves...And I also had a blown plenum at the time which I'm sure contributed to it.

 

i took it for a drive today. cold start not a problem anymore. idles right and sounds good. once warm and driving after a few mins it starts the bucking sensation again, and also sounds like backfiring inside the motor. and u can hear it in the exhaust. i did take it to advance and scanned it and verified no codes. the symtoms are from like 20mph progressively worse till 45-55 where its worse then after 60 you dont really feel it anymore or hear it.at an idle u can hear it missing orsomething because u can hear the engine drop a few rpms every other second or so and can hear a slight/small backfire when at idle. i was wondering if it could be timing an issue too. cuz a few years ago. a shop did hook a scanner to the truck and rotated the distributor. after i think they said they put it back timing to zero.. thats when they where trying to fix the spark knock issue then. which was unsuccessful.

 

as for this i think it is still the factory upstream. i dont remember changing this out at all. ill try this and see what happends