That's the thing, while your OP just spurts out what the experience is and the things you've attempted, it does not give us any impression that you've looking for other commonalities. For example, linking to such threads stating that you used it as a reference for possible troubleshooting. Then that helps those reading/attempting to follow your failure path resolution to provide better courses of action.


Yes, it is on the fuel rail. Remove cap.

 

Look Wh1t3NuKle, I am reaching out for help here. I am not trying to argue with someone or start a pissing match. Maybe there is just some miscommunication here. The way I read what I wrote says that I tried and/or checked common problems. Maybe thats not how you read it. I.E.

First common problem, fuel pump check valve. How to check, priming the fuel pump multiple times before starting or "I have tried priming the fuel pump (cycling the key multiple times before trying to start) with no anvil"

Second common problem, Temperature sensor chokes or fails to choke motor or "Data stream looks good, temperatures looks good, so no "choke" problem".

Faulty plugs or plugs tell a story, gassy, black, sooty, rusted.... or "I just replaced the old plugs, they looked well worn, but nothing else"

Possibly cap, cam sensor, crank sensor, compression, or injector problem or "Misfire count was 8 times on cylinder 7, twice on cylinder 2, but those happened when it was cold and never misfired again when it was running."

Weak battery "it'll crank and crank"

Then I asked for a diagnoisis table "What next? I don't want to be a parts changer, I want to correctly diagnose this."

Like I said, maybe the way I ment for this to be interpreted isn't that way it actually was. There is no need to so cocky. I do appreciate the time you invested into my problem.

 

Can your scanner check fuel sync?? Might wanna look at that....

reading back thru here a bit..... I think you need to get a fuel pressure gauge, and see what it looks like. If everything else appears to be ok, that's about all that's left. (aside from a compression test.... but, I don't think that's your problem.)

 

Ill check fuel pressure tomorrow. I am leaning away from the fuel pump for multiple reasons, but it can't hurt to check. Reasons are...
-Priming it doesn't help
-No driveablity problems after it starts
-Only happens cold, where i would think fuel pump happens all the time.

Here is the data stream on my scanner. Also there is a video of me starting it. It has sat for about 1.5 hours in 38.5 degree Fahrenheit weather. This was the third try. The first two it died when the RPMs dropped, this time it caught and stayed running. This is without priming or touching the pedal. Click on top picture to view video.

What is fuel sync? Just injector timing?

 

Seems it fires right off, you barely had to turn the engine..... What was ambient temp? (did I miss that somewhere?) Engine temp was 99 degrees, and the engine is already in closed loop....... Does it do the same thing when the engine is stone cold?

 

I had said 38.5 degrees but it is actually 33. This is the truck when it is warm. If she was hot, as I just shut her down she would fire right up. If she was cold cold, she would crank forever. She is somewhere in between right now. But if I let her sit over night and drop to the surrounding temperature, I will crank on her forever before I can get he to start. Sounds like the check valve but priming by cycling the key doesn't solve it.

 

Try swapping the fuel pump relay with the horn relay. If that doesn't help, do the same with the ASD relay. See if that doesn't change anything.

 

Same thing happened to mine...... and you can't get JUST the pin, and seal.... gotta buy the whole gauge. Of course, mine is about 15 years old too.....

 

Ill try those tomorrow. I just got antsy and went to check the fuel pressure and apparently my CP7818 fuel pressure tester is missing the push pin for activating the Schroeder valve. Guess ill be starting with that tomorrow.

 

So I got a new fuel pressure tester. I hooked her up to the fuel rail. There was pressure initially, but lost it when screwing on the gauge. Tried to start her with no anvil. After the first video, I even ethered her and she would run on that and then die. I couldn't hear the fuel pump kicking on so I swapped relays a fuel times and checked all the fuses under the hood and still no start. I pushed her into the garage (35 degrees and raining) and unplugged the fuel pump. I hooked her up to a meter and got a quick 12v prime and then 0v and then 12v again when cranking. So I decided it was the fuel pump. Tilted the bed back, pulled the fuel pump and bench tested her. She sounded like she worked. I didn't try pumping anything, but considering she was quiet when she was on the truck, I figured her to be working. I went back to the truck, hooked up the meter again, and the video below show what I have going on. Super quick 12v and then 0v and then 12v again when cranking. I am stumped. I plugged the pump back in outside the tank and she turned on for a second and then off and then she would turn on during cranking. Shouldn't the key priming last a few seconds to say the least? Since I can't get her to start this morning, I can't see if she is getting power while running. What controls the fuel pump turning off, turning on or staying on? I think that is where my problem lies. These are videos, click on them to see them.