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Vacuum Shift Actuator

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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 05:31 PM
  #21  
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i wouldn't think it was possible to put the fork on backward and still get the cad bolted in correctly.

but it would be easy to miss the slots in the collar.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 06:01 PM
  #22  
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its nice out today so I got a chance to work on it again. There is no vacuum in 2 wheel drive from either side and there is vacuum on the black line in 4 wheel drive. I even switched the plug around to see if maybe I got it backwards. Still no 4x4, Maybe I got a bad actuator?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:07 PM
  #23  
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did you already replace your vacuum diaphragm thing on the cad?
and have you already spent a bunch of money on this repair? or are you just getting started.

if just getting started, consider scrapping the whole mess and installing a posilok.

if you're already all-in, then you need to fix your vacuum setup.
get under the truck on the drivers side.
look above the 4wd shift linkage.
find and test the vacuum switch.

gently pry/push the rubber fitting upwards. notice the notches. it will only fit back on one way.
with an assistant - crank engine. determine which on the lines is the vac source. redneck rig the vac source to the proper pipe on the switch. shift between 2wd and 4wd and test the switch.

or just remove it and test it.
or just replace it.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...|GRP60008_____

 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 07:43 AM
  #24  
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so there is only one way the fork will go on and still line up with the coupler grove. I've put this thing on and off probably 12 times and can't figure it out. I won't have time to mess with it until Sunday, but any ideas? I only get vacuum out of the black line in 4hi/low and no vacuum in either line in 2, is that right?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:57 AM
  #25  
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No, it isn't. Should have vacuum at the outboard port in 2wd, and the inboard port in 4wd. If you aren't getting one or the other, you need to verify integrity of your vacuum lines from the switch to the axle, and if they are ok, replace the switch. (on t-case.)
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:12 AM
  #26  
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just wanted to update the thread in case someone ever needs this. I'm an idiot is what it amounts to, I put the housing on backwards, it bolts right up but the fork doesnt pull the way it needs to. So if you're reading this thread because you're replacing your actuator, be sure you're putting it back the way it goes!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mcweaver
just wanted to update the thread in case someone ever needs this. I'm an idiot is what it amounts to, I put the housing on backwards, it bolts right up but the fork doesnt pull the way it needs to. So if you're reading this thread because you're replacing your actuator, be sure you're putting it back the way it goes!

That does not explain the vac issue though. Do you have vac on each line when they should have it? Just curios.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #28  
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no i dont, it goes into 4wd no problem, but it is having problems coming out of and back into 2wd. So I guess thats my next step is track down a vacuum leak. Any usual suspect areas for this?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #29  
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metal lines that run along the frame like to rust out....
 
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #30  
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Update - now all of a sudden I can't get it to go into 4wd. The only thing I have done is plug in this vacuum line where it goes ( https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...m-line-go.html )I didn't have long to mess with it, but there is vacuum on the black line and none on the red line. The lines "disappear" between the transmission and the cab to where on my creeper underneath I haven't been able to find the other end. I also have not been able to locate to the vacuum switch that was mentioned. If anyone can help me locate the where the red line goes to and a little more specific on the vacuum switch I would greatly appreciate it!
 
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