My clear was worse than OP - it was gone in places. I also got the 3M Perfet It 3000 for the clear after I paint. de8212 's looks like it may be able to be saved.

 

Your gonna have to repaint...its like this once the clear starts peeling it won't stop.You can wet sand it&back&shoot clear&it was still peel.With dodges its an epoxy primer problem.You cant wetsand&itll be fixed.Has to be rebased you can feather it&shoot base then clear.Remove the clear with a heat gun or I heard something the other day about gorilla glue duct tape.Where are you located?If close I could help ya out.Mines peeling just waiting to hit the 70s.

 

A repaint is only required if when buffed you get color on the pad. If it buffs out and there is no color on the pad it will be good to go.

 

Your clear coat has de-laminated from the color base. If you buff it will only last a few months. Your option is limited to get the shine back. What I would do is to isolate the panel and strip down to metal, prime, seal, and paint with a single stage urethane with an integrated clear. The reason is the color coat no longer has the ability to grip the clear. Redoing the clear will eventually come off again.

If you can Isolate the panel (ie. the hood), and do the chemical strip yourself then you will save big bucks. Costwise when I had my shop in the 90's a chemical strip was $150/panel and the paint was $200. Most of the cost was labor. The do it yourself cost is about 35 for the stripper brush and rags, 15 for sanding paper, 5 sandable primer/sealer, and $50 for the paint with an integrated clear reducer (1 pint paint). The only thing you'll have to find is a buddy with a paint gun so add in a 6 pack.