You don't have to remove the VB to replace the TCC solenoid assembly. There is a plate with a spring under it, that you can remove to access the screw that holds the main wire harness plug on.

 

If you look at the photo you posted, the OD and TCC lockup solenoid are there in the center beside where you pulled the Gov press sensor and soleniod. You an see the screws (I think there are 3 of them).

Remove screws, and install the new one. Look for any crud on them. May need to spray it out with brake cleaner or something if there is debris in there, but should be clean.

 

Yea but you have have to get to the screw that holds the main(8 pin ) connector to the tranny. That's where removing the plate on the side of the VB comes in. Sorry, I don't know what it's called.

 

sorry about the missed info, I was thinking they were on the topside with the OD shift solenoid. Was there any dirt or varnish on the the screen of the gov?

The Gov works by raising the governor circuit pressure 1 psi per mph,so if it is regulating incurectly with a lower pressure(typical if dirty) it causes a short shift. Gear hunting can be remedied by increasing line pressure at the regulator valve.

If you look just below the shift linkage entrance on the trans body(looking at the VB) you will see a cover plate that is kind of u-shaped with a allen bolt sticking out towards the frame. there is a small guide just inside that the bolt feeds thru to add or relieve pressure from the spring pushing on the regulator valve. Take a 1/4 bit and see if it fits between the bracket and the spring keeper,if not increase the tension until the bit fits and try that out. Your increasing line pressure in the trans which will help to overcome worn seals on the pistons and servos.

I would also adjust the rear band while your in there back to spec. Tighten the adjusting bolt to 76in lbs and then back off 2.5 turns(?, if somebody can verify,I'd have to double check the manual). Then set your jam nut.

 

out of curiosity,if you shifted the gear selector down to first,did it have first gear,and if you manually shifted to 2nd did it shift and hold second gear with no problems?

 

Close! Rear band is 72 in pounds and back off 2 turns. front band is 72 also, but back off 2 7/8 turns.

 

Thanks I was afraid I would have to drop the VB for that but after reading and researching I found the part to remove is the accumulator...I think. The 3 screws hold it to the VB with some springs behind it to keep me on my toes. After removing those three screws I will hopefully drop that part to find the other end of my TCC harness firmly attached to the top with another screw. So in total I have 7 screws to R&R the TCC and OD solenoids. 3 screws on the solenoid plate and 4 more to get to the connector. I should be getting the parts tommorow so after verifying I have the correct parts I am going to get er done. I hate waiting on the postman because my neighborhood is his end of the day, which runs about 4:00pm unless it's friday.

 

Yes there was metal flake around the sloted screen. It didnt appear to be fully clogged but the part has been thru a couple fluid baths and some handling before I noticed the screen.

I like the fluid pressure adjustment idea. I will take a look at it before my parts get here tommorow but I am reading horror stories regarding the band adjustments. Are they true? Anyway since I am putting a drain plug in this time It wont be so difficult to drop the pan again.

In order to isolate which parts fixed my problem(s) I am going to see if all these electronic parts fixed my issues and if they did or didn't I will go back in after I get a couple of days(or hours) and adjust the bands.

I found these specs on a website that referenced the srvc manual and haynes manual for the 95-96 models. I hope they are right.
(FRONT)46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
(REAR)46RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns

Regarding holding 1st and 2nd. My last drive was while the tranny fluid was warm\hot and no it wouldnt go into 1st or 2nd. If I had waited for the fluid and tranny to get cold again im sure it would have had 1st and 2nd again like it did twice before.
Thanks for the help, Ive always enjoyed working on my own automobiles but transmissions have always been a mystery to me.

 

Thank you, that confirms it for me.
final answer? Yes it is. I am going to do the band adjustment last so I can see if these parts did any good. Regardless I am going to adjust the bands afterwards.

 

That leads me to believe that the rear clutch is either bad or the piston seals are shot. Both 2nd and 1st gear use the rear clutch with the exception that 2nd uses the front band also. A front band issue would mean that 2nd gear only would be affected. The only other possibility would be the overun clutch(really a sprag or one way bearing in the rear drum) is bad,but that is ruled out if both gears work when the trans is cold.

I'm really leaning towards this needing a rebuild,but hopefully I'm wrong.