I really hope its not a complete rebuild. Im hoping a small investment in the governor solenoid and temp sensor can bring her back to life. I bought a cheapo code reader this morning and hooked it up and it showed a P0740 code. I dont know enough about transmissions to understand if that code is telling me I have a bad torque converter or a bad torque converter circut(sensor). If I do need a new tranny I am going to roll the dice with a junkyard transmission and put any parts I purchase into it.

Does anyone have an idea about the P0740 error code. My book says "TCC Circut Malfunction".

 

Basically it means that when the PCM is commanding TCC lockup, it isn't seeing the corresponding RPM drop it expects. Could be a wiring problem, bad TCC solenoid, or, failed torque converter.....

 

I bought my own error code tester this morning and it showed a P0740 code. Could the TCC solenoid be causing this? The description in the book that came with the tester says "TCC Circut Malfunction".

 

It could be the TC solenoid, lack of adequate fluid pressure to lock up TC, or wiring going to TC solenoid.

And for reference, the clutches in the tailshaft are OD set.

 

I found the TCC Solenoid on ebay but cant find where it goes. I am going to replace it too if I can ever find it. lol When I google "TCC Location 1996 46RE" I am finding a lot of people looking for it's location. Does it have another name or\and is it under the pan or elswhere?
Thank you in advance

 

Is the fluid pressure controlled by the governor components? I am still trying to physically locate the TC solenoid. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

 

If you download the service manual form the FAQ/DIY section there is a very good section on the transmission in there. Diagnosis, repair, etc. TC, OD, Gove press sensor and solenoid are all located in the same area on the valve body.

 

You are correct, the first clutch pack you see when seperating the tail from the main body are the OD clutches. The second set of clutches that are held under spring tension are the Direct drive clutch packs. When the OD clutch piston is engaged, it compresses the OD Clutch engaging it and also applies pressure to the center hub of the direct drive clutches releasing them and allowing the last planetary to spin up,giving you OD.

This is the reason that it is reccomended not to tow in OD. You lose the direct clutch pack. If this pack fails, the only gear you could have power in, would be OD, because that's the only time it doesn't work.

 

You have to drop the valvebody to get to it, but I don't think it's worth the time. The only time your converter is locked up is 3rd and OD. If the clutches are slipping in the trans, and the torque converter clutch is engaged and the RPM doesn't drop ( like HeyYou said) then the computer is going to kick that code.

The computer can't reason with itself to tell you there is a mechanical malfunction, but rather the malfunction will cause codes to be set.

Now if you had all gears as normal and no lock-up in 3rd or OD, then yes, that's a good place to start before replacing the converter. The other thing is that the valvebody is the brain of the trans, and that being said,every screw and bolt has a torque value. I've seen alot of valvebody's cracked or malfunctioning from improper torqing.

 

I bought the "overdrive and lockup dual solenoid assembly" because it was included in the kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/170789930133 along with the governor components. I dont want to drop the valve body if I can avoid it for risk of damage. Maybe I shouldn't replace the "overdrive and lockup dual solenoid assembly" unless the governor parts dont work? Does it matter that the loss of 1st and 2nd was an intermittent failure. At first they worked all the time with problems only occuring with and without OD. The more I drove it showing friends what it was doing the worse it got. I have included a picture of my tranny with the 2 governor parts removed to make sure were talking about the same transmission. Three star screws and a connector are visible to me. I was hoping those were the only 3 screws I needed to remove to replace the TCC\Overdrive part. Please let me know if you still think the valve body needs to be removed for replacement?


or
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/q.../DE180038a.jpg

Thank you in advance