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Changing Brake Pads

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  #21  
Old 03-18-2012, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by T33N3R
It doesn't give me an option to post a new thread, just to add a new reply
Go here

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-64/

and click "new thread" in the upper left corner.

Or follow the red arrows in this picture

 
  #22  
Old 03-18-2012, 10:51 AM
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Thank you so much. I really appreciate you helping out with this.
 
  #23  
Old 03-18-2012, 11:54 AM
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Default This may help..

I'm not sure if this helps or not, but I recently wrote an article about changing the brakes in my 2005 Ram (1500 2wd). I also took a few pictures of the process. By the way, I think the sockets were 13mm for the slide pins, but I could be wrong.

Here's the article.. http://www.halfofbob.com/article.php...tid=1000000033
 
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Donmega884
Your wrong about your sizes ( what a surprise) I don't need any of your advice. Why don't you just answer the questions and save your Caliper Pin is a Hex 3/8 genius

Starting 3 threads about basically the same project is not necessary. You'll get answers. And did you put the info in the other threads? so when some one else does a search they are not all dead end threads.
 
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by zman17
Starting 3 threads about basically the same project is not necessary. You'll get answers. And did you put the info in the other threads? so when some one else does a search they are not all dead end threads.

Yea I'm sorry, I get to impatient sometimes and I don't wait for the answers to come in. I'll make sure and list all the important details for the next person to read up on and I'll make sure to have all details included and maybe some pictures
 
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Donmega884
Yea I'm sorry, I get to impatient sometimes and I don't wait for the answers to come in. I'll make sure and list all the important details for the next person to read up on and I'll make sure to have all details included and maybe some pictures

No big deal bud. Just so you know, answers come real quick around here 99% of the time. (like within 1 minute) LOL
 
  #27  
Old 03-18-2012, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Donmega884
Yea I'm sorry, I get to impatient sometimes and I don't wait for the answers to come in. I'll make sure and list all the important details for the next person to read up on and I'll make sure to have all details included and maybe some pictures

Sometimes, answers may take longer to start coming in, but they will show up. Time of day and people at work may make it take a little longer, but usually not very long.

At least your thread title was good. Some people put things like "need help" or "waht's up" or something like that which doesn't provide any members an idea about what help is needed so they tend to get ignored sometimes.

And in case it wasn't said earlier, welcome to DF!
 
  #28  
Old 03-18-2012, 11:23 PM
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Yea I did some more research and found the FSM on my truck so I'll be doing this job sometime this week. I will be posting pictures and provide all the information along the way to make sure the next person in my shoes can find the right information. Thanks for all the direction guys and sorry for not following the forum rules lol I'm learning
 
  #29  
Old 03-19-2012, 12:02 AM
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I just did brakes on mine and the stupid caliper bolts are as varied as can be. I needed new calipers and when removing the old ones one side at hex bolts the other torx. when I got the new (reman) calipers same deal one had hex bolts and one had torx. A little aggravating, but I have a nice set of sockets with both torx and hex bits so wasn't too big a pain.
 
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:44 PM
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OK so I finally got around to changing the rotors, brake pads, and calipers. I found out how to do this all from the free FSM, but ill explain it anyway so I can end this thread with a solution Follow these steps

1. Take lug nuts off and remove tire( of course jack the truck up first)

2. Remove the grease hub and you will see a coder pin remove that. Bend the tail down straight and pull up from the top with a pair of pliers. Next will be a nut in there and you remove that. The rotor should pull right out. Replace the seal on the back of the rotor they are only like 2 bucks. Make sure you have some grease and don't be afraid to use it.
Goes on same way it came off with the new rotors. Make sure the rear seal is properly installed.

3. Now to remove the calipers, Place the top of a large C-clamp over the inboard caliper housing and the bottom of the clamp onto the outboard pad and tighten the clamp. A properly functioning caliper will allow you to tighten the C-clamp and compress the caliper piston

3. There are two caliper bolt pins and they are a 3/8 sized hex on the back side one on top on on the bottom. Remove the both and away comes the caliper. DO NOT hang the caliper buy the brake line as it might damage the line. I use a little bungee to hold it up instead. Remove bolt that holds the line to the caliper and put something under the truck for the brake fluid to drain into.

4. Brake pads simply clip into the calipers. Just bolt the brake line back onto the caliper make sure you have your washers in place or it will leak (new calipers come with new washers)

5. Make sure you bleed the brake to make sure there is no air in the brake lines.

Brake Pads ($45) Calipers were $50 a set but had a core charge of $50, Rotors were $50 a piece... I bought these all at a Mom and Pop shop. I know I could have gotten them cheaper, but I support local business. **** Rock Auto's cheap *** parts and pay for shipping wait a week to get them. That's just my opinion, and I hope my directions work out for the next person attempting this job. BTW Belle Tire wanted to charge me $1000 to do this job and it costs me $250 to do it myself
 



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