Brake Rotors
Hello Dodge Forum!!!
I'm new here and I have a quick question. I am attempting to change my rotors because they look very worn and very old. I have a 1998 Ram 1500 2wd 5.9L. I removed the wheel and the caliper and the bearing cap and I ran outta time( Girlfriend was complaining) I was lost as what to do next anyway. It doesn't seem to be like any other rotor I have done before. I bought the truck with 89,000 on it and it has 160k now. The brake pads looked real good I'm just not getting good stoppage when I hit the break, and it seem to pulse and veer to the left. Please help I have searched for how to do this everywhere and can't find any help.
I'm new here and I have a quick question. I am attempting to change my rotors because they look very worn and very old. I have a 1998 Ram 1500 2wd 5.9L. I removed the wheel and the caliper and the bearing cap and I ran outta time( Girlfriend was complaining) I was lost as what to do next anyway. It doesn't seem to be like any other rotor I have done before. I bought the truck with 89,000 on it and it has 160k now. The brake pads looked real good I'm just not getting good stoppage when I hit the break, and it seem to pulse and veer to the left. Please help I have searched for how to do this everywhere and can't find any help.
Didn't you already have a thread started about brakes? It really does not help to start a new related thread. And in the original thread, itf you would have described the problem...like "not getting good stoppage" maybe you could have gotten responses to help fix the actual problem instead of just what it takes to change the rotors....
Didn't you already have a thread started about brakes? It really does not help to start a new related thread. And in the original thread, itf you would have described the problem...like "not getting good stoppage" maybe you could have gotten responses to help fix the actual problem instead of just what it takes to change the rotors....
.......have it your way.
Last edited by gdstock; Mar 17, 2012 at 07:57 PM.
let's all play nice...
on a 2wd there's two possibilities and i don't know which year is which.
remove the grease cap and cotter pin and the cotter pin cap thing.
then remove the spindle nut. if its a tapered bearing it'll be just past finger tight and come out easily. or, if its a unitize bearing, it'll be torqued to about 100 or 125 pounds. and if so it might? be 1-3/8 or similar mm equiv.
on a 2wd there's two possibilities and i don't know which year is which.
remove the grease cap and cotter pin and the cotter pin cap thing.
then remove the spindle nut. if its a tapered bearing it'll be just past finger tight and come out easily. or, if its a unitize bearing, it'll be torqued to about 100 or 125 pounds. and if so it might? be 1-3/8 or similar mm equiv.
veering is also caused by softened/rotted out brake hoses that expand under pressure. cheap and easy to replace, but you'll need to bleed the brakes afterward, which is also good maintenance to bleed out and replace old brake fluid every 5-10 years.
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Why people attempt to do their own work without at least getting a Haynes manual, (so they can at least research the project) when they walk by them numerous times in the parts stores, boggles my mind.
i havent bought a haynes manual since 2006/7 when i had my civic. just learned as i went, and havent looked back since! you dont need a haynes manual if you know what youre doing, ut then theres also the interweb you can run inside to look things up, or there is also those handy dandy android phones that you can use too.



