I have not been to Soldotna since 1998. Don't remember seeing any Rams there (but I wasn't lookeing either....). I have a sister in Anchorage.

 

about head flow, the numbers can be misleading. YOu see very high flow numbers over .500 inch lift, but I doubt that you will see much time at or above .500. Some aftermarket heads actually flow LESS from .100-.300 inches of lift than stocker.

I would go with edelbrock heads for the bump in compression and 1.6 adjustable rockers (I think you can only get adjustable rockers for eddie heads).

I would look at this site for a cam:
www.-hi-potek.com Rich is the guy there, and he is very good. Free shipping and he price matches. I would get the 318 torque cam (RV cam).

Here is a good read: You can make almost as much HP as a hemi (Rear Wheel) and LOTS more torque. Talking high 300s and maybe 400s for ft/lbs:
http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...?topic=9197.45

He has a cam, KEGGER, R/T stock heads (bigger valves), 1.6 roller rockers, SCT, underdrive pulley, K&N Xtream air filter, magnaflow cat, and headers. It was a budget build (Used parts).

Read that, you can even email billyW and he will give you the specs on the cam, but Rich at Hi-poitek pretty much has the same specs for his cam.

 

If he wants more power and torque below 5,000 rpm the factory intake is tuned for that and is a better choice over the m1... If is he's racing or needs power over the 5,000 rpm range (WOT) then the M1 is the better choice....
with all the other mods you wont notice a loss in power below the 5,000 rpm line because the other mod gains would compensate but there still would be additional HP and torque found in that lower range with the long runners of the kegger tunned for the low end torque... this is also why trimming the runners with the kegger mod causes the engine to lose power on the lower end and gain it at a higher power band.)
M1 and factory intakes are two totally different designs for two toatlly different applications...M1 is designed for racing.... kegger is designed for street power and torque tuned to a max at lower range...
just like the long tuned port runners on the TPI chevies and corvettes of the time which were celebrated for thier torque... (they still use long individual runners to accomplish this on LS6 engines...

 

If I were to do any mods agian I think I would do gears . Watch some 0-60 vids with 4.56 gears . Make me wanna wet my pants

 

That's probably TMI!

 

again that all depends on the tire size... one could just put smaller than stock tires and get the same power upgrade as 4.56 gears with stock tires... I have 4.56 gears and with my 35" tires its exactly the same power / gear ratio as stock...

 

The M1 will do anything you want it to with a proper tune. I have at least as much or more low end torque with the M1 as I did with the keg. 250ft/lbs at the wheels at only 2000 RPM out of boost, 300ft/lbs@3200RPM is stock at the crank for the 5.2, so 50ft/lbs less at the wheels at 1200 fewer RPM. Low end torque is not a problem.


Also OP, you didn't specify if your power goals are at the crank or wheels.

 

+1 I think the M1 is a great upgrade.

 

I'm just talking bout people keep that keep the wheels /tires smaller to have the get up and go .

 

I hear this a lot along with others who say they noticed no gains until they got into the higher rpm and then there was more top end..this is what the dyno testing I seen has also shown dyno information as well as the theory behind the different designs would dictate ....