Ok guys according to the very first post in our own DIY FAQ section...... looks like this info is all bogus according to what your telling me since it sure looks like its saying the same things I tried to say? I noticed he does say to get an sct tune first but he also says the colder plugs and stat do in fact help with the pinging ....

And coming from a job in the engineering field I have to say to say a certain spark plug wont perform well in one engine but work better in another of the same design and specs and suggest another should be used would also be an example of covering up some other issue with a bandaid since something else has to be wrong to prevent the plugs from working well right? Do you see the hypocrisy here?

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ath-flash.html

 

Best I can tell, we're not disagreeing..

Sct by hf suggests using a cooler stat as he can further advance timing safely.. that is the sole reason.. if the engine is cooler, it is less likely to ping.. running a cooler stat will allow the engine to run cooler in most circumstances- the atypical being under heavy load.. under heavy load its going to get warmer, at what point its not going to advance timing no matter if you're sct tuned or not.. its a pcm function.. it protects itself..

With cooler plugs, there is less likelihood of hotspots pre-igniting the load.. that also allows the pcm's of some engines to further advance spark- these don't have knock sensors, though.. so, best you can do is get as cool as you can and hope the tune (either sct or OE) allows the advanced spark to happen without pre-det..

Hell, all of this about tuning is almost for naught anyway.. all you can really hope for is that everything is happening optimumly, and that each bank and cylinder is within pretty close tolerances to the other(s)... One whacky cylinder, for whatever reason, and the tune isn't going to be optimum..

Let's say you have a crack on the exhaust seats on two cylinders.. that crack is a hot spot and capable of pre-igniting a load.. you could chase your tail forever trying to figure it out, which includes but isn't limited to advancing/regarding ignition across the entire engine..

You could have a bad casting in one intake runner and it not gulp air like the rest, though its getting the same fuel charge as the rest.. that tosses afr out, and creates further imbalance..

There are a metric ton of variables to this, and tuning for temperature is just one.. its a bandaid all by itself when you splice hairs.. so is sct tuning.. so are higher ratio rocker rollers or any other 'mod'.. the plain truth of this, along with pretty much every topic in this forum other than repair related topics is surrounding bandaids.. the proper way is pull the mass produced engines and start machining 'for one' instead of 'for the masses'...

The 180 needs a tune to get full benefit.. that's fuel, air, and spark related.. and based on all other factors/variables being controlled.. its impossible to address all those variables without fully building a custom machines blue printed engine...

 

God, my phone hates me...

The tune allows the advanced spark opportunity to not create pings.. it also reduces the fuel delivered (though minutely). Without it, you're simply reducing the operating temperature of an engine not operating under a heavy load.. the tune brings it all together. It's kinda wasteful to have one and not the other.

 

I finished today and everything went smooth. My truck runs 100% at least i think....... haha there is no smoke/steam at all out of tips like there used to be and it revs fine and idles great. I made my own thermostat housing gasket and i would not suggest this haha i will be going and buying one tonight because it leaks. Ill check PCV valve after running for a while and see if this new one is working and not allowing oil into my intake. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

I also got a CEL which i believe i had before the install anyway its ECT Sens Voltage Too Hi p0118 i believe my connection may not be tight i will check tomorrow but if that's not the problem what would be another thing to check?

 

Voltage too high indicates that the pcm is getting a signal that the engine is actually hotter than it really is. Sounds like a bad sensor to me, or a short in the wiring.

 

voltage too high means the signal is outside the expected range of the sensor. so instead of something (more or less) like 4-5 volts, its reading 12 or some other outlandish number. this likely means the sensor is shorted out, as in bad and needs to be replaced. OR.... your sensor wiring is shorted and/or pinched underneath something.

 

ok thank you and this is not that serious is it? i can replace when i get the money and its the one screwed into the intake?

 

Glad to hear you're getting it buttoned up. No matter what T-stat you used. Lol

 

BTW, never really understood the whole alum vs steel expansion rate deal. I understand the concept, but there's a whole lotta cast iron block engines with cast alum heads doin fine out there. I think APS introduced that concept to sell alum plates maybe. First place I remember hearing it mentioned. But, I drank the Kool Aid and put my Hughes alum plate on anyway. I know a guy with 315k miles on a 360 Magnum with the original plenum gasket, so I'm kinda thinking the plenum deal is kinda blown out of proportion. Go ahead. Call me an infadel.