+1... Those pics look just like the oil pan job I did Saturday for a member here on DF. We were going to do the rear main seal(it was already replaced not long ago) also at first (that's what he thought was leaking).

When the pan was out, it was pretty obvious the gasket was damaged (at the bottom of the half moon), and rtv was used on the whole half moon part instead of just in the corners. I could not see any evidence the rear main seal was leaking. So we just did the pan gasket. We'll see what happens.

 

Sorry to resurrect this, but need some clarification. May Haynes calls for Loctite 515 and silicone rubber adhesive sealant. Looking at the pictures in the manual, as well as the one on pavementsucks and I am still not 100% confident WHERE to apply these. In the service manual it looks like the loctite515 is just applied to the machined surface of the cap. Clarification? When I read this thread, it sounded as if either RTV or the loctite was applied directly to the seal IOT allow both to seal against each other.

Feedback?

Thanks.
InfO.

 

Apply it to the corners of the seal/ main where they meet, not to the seal surface itself.

 

Alright, so I've come to the conclusion this is clearly a terminology problem and one that is on MY end

To be honest, your answer doesn't clarify it for me and while I understand that may frustrate you and make you think I'm an idiot... I'm just not understanding. Simple as that.



Here is what is in my Haynes - looks like I just put a DAB on the metal? I also see the silicone rubber adhesive sealant slots and I'm going to think that is where the oil pan gasket slips in? I don't know what's wrong with me at the moment, but I cannot visualize any of this for the life of me.... I think I need a red bull or something. Florida has fritz'd my mind!

InfO.

 

i never paid attention to what the RTV seals in that notch, maybe its the oil pan, maybe not. i don't know.

the drop of loctite 515 on each side is a flange sealer. it prevents oil from leaking through the metal to metal machined surfaces.

so - insert the upper half of the seal around the crank. make sure you have it the correct way, and not backwards. see my pic above. do NOT force it, do NOT distort it. do NOT cut it or shave it on the sharp surface. oil it up good and slide it in. if it won't go in easily, drop the crank a little more all the way to the front.

once the seal is in the top, resnug all the main caps except the rear one. clean the rear main block and cap with brake cleaner and wipe it clean and dry.

insert bottom half of seal in cap. oil the seal very lightly. don't get oil on the machined surface.

put a small dap of RTV in the corner notches. see haynes. don't get it on the flat machined surfaces.

put 1-2 drops of 515 on each of the machined surface. see haynes. don't overthink it. its very thin, almost like water.

using your finger, put a couple drops of oil on the crank where the seal will contact it. keep the machined surfaces of the block clean and dry.

reinstall rear main. torque all caps to spec and in the correct sequence.

 

Thanks. I'll tackle this tomorrow after work.

One thing, I do not have Loctite 515. I looked, could not find it. I do have this though:



Will it suffice?

Thanks for the info, should be straight forward. I'll have to clean down all the surfaces as I sprayed EVERYTHING with storage oil before leaving for Florida for 2 weeks (training).

InfO.

 

yes, that's the same thing. anaerobic flange sealer.

be sure the flange surface is clean and dry. brake cleaner works best but don't get it in your eye... it burns like a MF.

 

Sounds good. With luck, I'll be out of work at 1700 today and should be able to re-install the main cap, oil pan (with new gasket, hopefully not a bitch), inspection plate, starter, and support struts. Then it's just the top end I need to re-install everything on.

Thanks,
InfO.