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A couple of questions

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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #11  
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You can fix the vacuum line by just pulling out the broken end(be Careful not to break it more or off inside the rubber connector) and then just shove the remaining line in.

Of course this only works if there's a little slack, but their probably is, I break vacuum lines all the time.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:35 PM
  #12  
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Yeah, I haven't tried the 4x4 since I bought it, but it did have the 4x4 light on the dash flickering for a long time and now it doesn't anymore. Must be the reason. I was thinking to fix it I might just use some shrink tube.

I will remove the cotter pin and plug in the connector. Why do you think they put a cotter pin in it to bypass it? What would be the reason for that?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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I suspect that the refrigerant is too low and low pressure cut out keeps it from running....or if that switch is for high pressure, then the refirgerant is too full. Can't remember which switch is which. Bottom line, it is a safety device to protect the system, and someone bypassed that. Needs to be fixed and not rigged.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 01:57 PM
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That's the low pressure switch there.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #15  
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Dbl post sorry.
 

Last edited by zman17; Apr 20, 2012 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
That's the low pressure switch there.
+1 .. Does the compressor run all the time with that cotter pin in there? When set on AC or defrost. Actually , doesn't matter. Remove it.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:05 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for all the help so far everyone.

I haven't had a chance to fix the vacuum line yet and noticed while I was driving the truck today that it started to shudder if I gave it some gas. If I let off, it would go away. This was not long after I first started going. After I drove it a while, it stopped doing it. Is this possibly due to the vacuum line at the tranny being broke?

Also, the brakes seem very sensitive and it doesn't take much and the rear tires lock up. Would this be due to the vacuum leak as well?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 09:49 PM
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Brakes are going to be a separate issue. Need to pull the drums, and see what the shoes look like.

Cold shudder may be from the vacuum leak. Fix the leak, and see if it solves the problem.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 03:22 PM
  #19  
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So I took out the cotter pin yesterday and plugged in the connector to the proper spot. AC blows cold air, no issues, so I don't know why it was ever bypassed.

I also used shrink tube and repaired the vacuum leak.

I suspected maybe the shudder was a torque converter/tranny shudder issue, so I bought some Lubeguard Shudder Fixx after reading some very good reviews on it. When I drove the truck around town yesterday, no shudder at all.

Lastly, for the braking issue, I aggressively applied the brakes over again a few times and it seemed to resolve that issue also. The truck doesn't get driven very much and was mainly parked by the previous owner also, so I thought maybe things just were getting kind of stuck from non-use.

Anyway, things seem to be better now with it. I will need to test the 4x4, however, after the vacuum fix and see if it still operates normally.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by sunmicroman

I suspected maybe the shudder was a torque converter/tranny shudder issue, so I bought some Lubeguard Shudder Fixx after reading some very good reviews on it. When I drove the truck around town yesterday, no shudder at all.
Additives are not a good idea in these tranny's. (just a bandade) But hey whatever floats your boat. Rebuild time is coming soon, save some money. I suggest you replace the tranny fluid and filter soon. Use ATF+4 only in the trans. Maybe do a band adjustment if you have the proper tools and a manual. Also replace the Gov solenoid with one of these.

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