Well well well, finally found the source of my gear oil smell...
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From: Western NY,
I see your point (and share your frustration)....I was merely commenting on the cotter pin comment.... the manual doesnt explain that anymore that it would explain how to use a torque wrench to someone who has never used one... For all we know he could be using the manual...
Last edited by Augiedoggy; May 16, 2012 at 09:19 PM.
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It's not a cotter pin. I am well aware of what a cotter pin looks like and what it's purpose is. For one thing, a cotter pin goes thru a hole milled in a bolt to keep a nut and washer in place. This is a little U-channel shaped piece of steel or aluminum set into a keyway in the hub. It was oddly cut and I initially thought it was metal trash but it appears it was holding the nut in place. I'm not seeing it on the downloaded manual. Now if you'll kindly get off my back.
Last edited by kadetklapp; May 17, 2012 at 08:43 AM.
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No. There doesn't seem to be a notch in the nut. It was like it was put there to just prevent the nut from spinning off, but I was able to bend the steel and pull it out with a pair of pliers. I'm trying to find some sort of illustration of it, but so far no luck.
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Here's a pic I found on the net of a D60 rear hub.
The red circle shows the keyway I'm talking about, in the little black box I drew (poorly) an end-view of this little U-channel piece of steel that was in there. One side was a bent as if to keep it in the channel while the other was tight against the nut. Once I bent one side over, I was able to slide it out with a pair of pliers, where it promptly dropped into my oil bucket. I'm about to rip the other side apart to see if there is one over there.
The red circle shows the keyway I'm talking about, in the little black box I drew (poorly) an end-view of this little U-channel piece of steel that was in there. One side was a bent as if to keep it in the channel while the other was tight against the nut. Once I bent one side over, I was able to slide it out with a pair of pliers, where it promptly dropped into my oil bucket. I'm about to rip the other side apart to see if there is one over there.
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From: Clayton MI
It may just be a holdover from the fact that these rears are used in a bunch of different trucks, and some use different methods of securing the nuts on the spindle. I can see the lock-ring-washer thingy behind the outer nut there..... should be another nut behind that? and some of the tabs were bent over to prevent the outer nut from turning?
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I just don't know if I need to worry about this or what. It had broken in half and then dropped on the ground, either in the pan or in the gravel. I haven't been able to locate either piece. If it's essential I want to know. There were some vague references to it on pirate4x4 but the consensus seemed to be that it wasn't completely necessary....but I don't know if I believe that.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: NorCal
Once you get rolling, it's actually easier than it looks. Pick up plenty of brake-kleen (6-8 cans) and a cheap plastic bowl. Spray the snot out of it first. There is a special socket to remove the spindle nuts, but you can probably rent it where you get the brake-kleen.
If I remember correctly, there should be a cage between the nuts with a tab folded over into one of the grooves in the outer spindle nut. Bend that out of the way and don't forget to bend it back down during reassembly.
If I remember correctly, there should be a cage between the nuts with a tab folded over into one of the grooves in the outer spindle nut. Bend that out of the way and don't forget to bend it back down during reassembly.
Here's a pic I found on the net of a D60 rear hub.
The red circle shows the keyway I'm talking about, in the little black box I drew (poorly) an end-view of this little U-channel piece of steel that was in there. One side was a bent as if to keep it in the channel while the other was tight against the nut. Once I bent one side over, I was able to slide it out with a pair of pliers, where it promptly dropped into my oil bucket. I'm about to rip the other side apart to see if there is one over there.
The red circle shows the keyway I'm talking about, in the little black box I drew (poorly) an end-view of this little U-channel piece of steel that was in there. One side was a bent as if to keep it in the channel while the other was tight against the nut. Once I bent one side over, I was able to slide it out with a pair of pliers, where it promptly dropped into my oil bucket. I'm about to rip the other side apart to see if there is one over there.
Step 1. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ram-axles.html
Step 2. Click LAST link in 2nd post.
Step 3. Scroll down to find Chrysler/Dodge Applications (I already looked at the general D60 article and specifics about said lock nut not present).
Pdf file will open and something like page 30 and 31, Item #37.
Hope that helps....
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Seems like Jimythefan mentioned it?
This is what I found, but unsure if its applicable. I'd recommend getting the BOM number off the axle, which iirc is passenger side axle tube:
Step 1. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ram-axles.html
Step 2. Click LAST link in 2nd post.
Step 3. Scroll down to find Chrysler/Dodge Applications (I already looked at the general D60 article and specifics about said lock nut not present).
Pdf file will open and something like page 30 and 31, Item #37.
Hope that helps....
This is what I found, but unsure if its applicable. I'd recommend getting the BOM number off the axle, which iirc is passenger side axle tube:
Step 1. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ram-axles.html
Step 2. Click LAST link in 2nd post.
Step 3. Scroll down to find Chrysler/Dodge Applications (I already looked at the general D60 article and specifics about said lock nut not present).
Pdf file will open and something like page 30 and 31, Item #37.
Hope that helps....
It does, thank you. I believe that may be it. I guess the term "cage" threw me for a loop and I didn't consider it.
Ok, back to the job at hand.