If you go to the FAQ/DIY section, you can download the service manual and parts manual for your truck. All specs are there.

 

Fuel system pressure should be between 35 to 45 psi. I think your wires are the issue. Especially when you mention cracks and holes...IMO...

Also after reading your edit...I would say not to use any "cleaner" in fuel systems. Yes I've used the enzyme to get rid of water and improve fuel mileage, but the cleaners are bad for O-rings and gaskets and aged rubber. The guys in the shop say the same thing...best of luck and get a service manual...

*edit:
Also when I get something new; I dive into as much data as I can. I have found all the Mastertech videos from the Dodge V10/Cummins service series. That and a few friends say the wire routing is important. I think it is true because the V10 uses a big plastic routing harness. After looking again all the odd cylinders are routed through the plastic over the front of the engine, and wire number 5 needs to be away from or not crossed over with number 1.

 

What about putting the wires in wire loom?

 

Mine's a '94...I know the loom that travels across the front of the engine routes all the odd number cylinders from the coil pack. From what I remember when I worked on these, and from other mechanics; keep #5 and #1 away from each other. It could be because the ignition system fires 2 cylinders at a time. One on compression and at the same time another on the exhaust of another cylinder. The PCM fires 9 and 8, 1 and 6, and 3 and 2. The ignition module fires 5 and 10, 7 and 4. I think #9 goes in between 5 and 1 in the plastic harness or loom. I know I had weird problems where I would get rough idle, hard start and loss of power around 50 to 70 MPH. I changed the wires and it ran smooth as pudding...that was for a different vehicle, but faulty wires can cause a great deal of havoc especially for vehicles that sequential fire like these V10s...


It looks like 5, 9, and 7 run on the top while 1 and 3 are on the bottom of the plastic loom...they are still close together so bad wires would be a problem.

*edit:
The routing may have importance because of the firing order, (1-10-9-4-3-6-5-7-2). If the coil packs discharge in pairs; 1 and 6 would fire for #1 and then 5 and 10 for #10. That puts #5 and #1 in close magnetic interference and could cause misfires through induction, (like a step down transformer)...hope it works out for ya!

 

Installed new plug wires and made sure the 1 & 5 didn't touch. Same problems....no improvements. Any other suggestions before I drop the tank for the fuel pump? Thanks!

 

Check fuel pressure before condemning the pump.

Haven't re-read the whole thread, what do your plugs look like?

 

Hey You is right...it is most likely fuel related at this point. However what are the chances of an intermittent crank sensor? I might be stretching it a bit with that but check pressure first. But it still runs fine at speed? What range? If you ran it for 1K with fuel; there may be more than that wrong or something in the fuel system was picked up and could be anywhere, dislodged gunk?...injectors? I had the same issue years and years ago with a Chevy. First I lost half of the engine, then it refused to start. All the tests pointed to ignition, but it was crank sensor in the end. Best O Luck...

 

Interesting point Brian. We had a member a few months back that had a rough idle, (on a V-8 though... same principle anyway.) He had weak spark consistently on a couple cylinders. Replaced his crank sensor, and problem was gone.

 

Truck runs great at anything above idle. It's just a starting and idle issue at this point.

Before changing the wires the truck hadn't been started in about 3 days. After installing the wires the truck fired on 3 revolutions without sputtering but still had a rough idle. I thought I had fixed one of the problems. I let it sit a short while and had a similar startup. I let it sit again for about 30 mins and it was back to the same old starting issue.

I'll check fuel pressure today and report back.

 

I hate throwing a bunch of parts at this truck but it seems there are several more possibilities....coil packs, crank sensor, injectors, etc. I hope I can figure this out quickly without spending a fortune!