Hello, could I please get an evaluation of my transmission problem?


VEHICLE: 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 3.9L V6 Magnum Automatic (42RE)


Maintenance: I bought this used at 100,000 miles. I have no records of maintenance by the previous owners, however, the vehicle was in great condition when I bought it, and the previous owner kept all of the original paperwork from the vehicle, including the manual, the warranty book, and even the original sticker. As far as I have been able to determine, this was some kind of commercial/company vehicle because it came with a full set of commercial 8-ply tires.

So, I have hypothesized the following senario: The vehicle likely got regular maintenance for the first 75,000 miles or so. Then, when the owner decided to sell at 100,000, likely decided to forgo the last fluid change. I've owned the vehicle for 3 years and put 27,000 miles on it. So assume the truck has gone about 50,000 miles without a transmission filter or fluid change. (I have been keeping the engine fluids maintained as scheduled.) Lastly, if it was a commercial vehicle of some type, assume that the drive train was worked hard for the first 100,000 miles.


Problem: At a standstill, with the engine in Park and foot-on-the-brake, the transmission will not shift into D2 or D1. The transmission will shift into N & D, but does not lock into either - the shift lever can slide between N & D without stopping. When driving, the vehicle will occasionally slip from D to N - this is rectified quickly by pushing the shift lever back into D. (This doesn't happen very often.)


Approach: After researching this, I did the following:

1: I checked the fluid level: it was overfilled, but otherwise good. Fluid was slick and clean with no foam or milkiness.
2: I dropped the pan. The filter was dirty so I put a clean one on. Inside the pan was the following:

The central mass was a thick oily sludge with what I would call a fair amount of fine metal filings. Also, there was sludge and filings collected in the upper left-hand corners of the pan (both the lower indent, and the higher corner). I cleaned the pan and re-installed it with a new gasket. While I was under there, I adjusted the Kick-down Bands per the specs in the Haynes manual. (72lb, then back off 3 front, 2 rear.) I refilled with ATF4 and ran the vehicle through its gearbox, plus a test drive. No change.
3. I did a test drive and a run through the gearbox both with the Overdrive on, and off. Again, no change.

At this point, I am convinced that I will need a new transmission. But before I take it to the shop, I would like to get some ideas, suggestions or recommendations from this board as to what to expect from the garage. Is there anything else that I could or should have done, or is this a lost cause?

Thanks bunches, gobs, etc.

 

Please note, that spec is 72 INCH pounds...... for the band adjustment.

Did you happen to take a look at the governor pressure sensor and solenoid while you were in there? They like to get gummed up with the stuff you found in the bottom of your pan, and not work properly.

 

Thank you.

Yes, that is 72 inch-pounds and that is how I set it.

No, I didn't check any of the connections. The fluid was clean and running clear out of the case. The only place I saw any sludge or metal filings were in the pan itself. I did hose down the underside of the transmission with carb cleaner a few times before I reinstalled the cover.

I'm not seeing any anything about the governor pressure sensor and solenoid in the Haynes manual. Do you have a procedure? It would be straightforward enough to have another look. After all, it's not going anywhere.

 

where are you on the east coast? if anywhere near Charleston, SC go see Robert Griffith (MonteC).

i don't know anything about transmissions, but my understanding of the gov pressure sensor and solenoid is that its the shifting control.

are you only having 2 problems-
won't manually shift into D2 or D1
sometimes jumps from D to N.

 

Haynes really does not proivide much info or good infor on these trannys (mostly stuff that the average owner needs- but not enough for most of us on DF!). Go to the FAQ/DIY section and download the service manual for the year closedt to yours. LOTS of great info on transmission from adjustments, theory and overhaul.

And just to be sure - did you check fluid with it in Neutral instead of Park?
Also, the sludge at the bottom and on the magnet are pretty normal. That's why there is a magnet there.

+1 on pulling the pressure sensor and gov solenoid to check and clean them.

As far as not moving in 1 or 2, I suspect linkage adjustment issue. Are you judging by feel or by the orange indicator....cause if it is the inidcator, it may need its own adjustment as well.

 

Sorry, I don't live anywhere near S.C. (I don't like to give out specific address information over the internet.) And yes, the transmission won't manually shift into D2 or D1, and sometimes slips from D to N.

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Thanks for all the info. I will have a look for the documents you mentioned. As I have never changed the oil in a tranny pan before, I had no baseline, so I didn't know if I was looking at a normal, or abnormal, amount of sludge and filings. Thank you very much.

I'll pull the pressure sensor and governor solenoid and inspect them soon. I don't have the facilities to bench-test anything, so all I'll be able to do is clean them and put them back.

When I shift between 1 and 2, the vehicle stopped with my foot on the brake, I go both by feel and by the indicator on the dash. So here's a blow-by-blow of exactly what happens when I try to shift:

Park: locks solid with clear indent between next gear.
Reverse: locks solid with clear indents between P and R
Neutral: does not lock solid. Clear indent between R & N, but slides very easily into D.
Drive: does not lock solid. Slides very easily into N.
D2: Will not shift into D2.
D1: Will not shift into D1.

And when I say it won't shift, I mean it won't MOVE. As if I am at the bottom of the range. Same with the indicator. Dead stop at D.

BTW: This transmission worked perfectly a month ago.

 

OK. If I understand you correctly, you cannot move the shifter through the whole range. If you cannot manually pull the shifter down to 2 or 1, then something is binding in linkage or on the rooster comb on the valve body. You should be able to do this with the key on, engine off (for safety purposes).

I would set parking brake, block wheels and climb underneath with a flashlight and a couple wrenches. I think it may be 10 or 12mm. Look at linkage rods for any sign that it is not where it used to be - dirt, scraping, etc. Make sure that cross link is bolted securely. One end on frame and otther on tranny. Look at engine and tranny mounts and make sure something is not worn allowiung engine and tranny to be out of whack.

Hae someone turn key on, but not start enigne (may weant to pull coil wire...) and have them go through shifter range to see if you can determine what is binding.

 

I agree. Looks to me that the linkage is binding in some fashion. I have been into many a trans, and have never encountered a problem like this. If this does not work, disconnect the linkage from the trans, and go through the gears. It may be that the prior owner had to drop the steering column for some reason, and something is binding the shifter.

 

Im gonna say that the linkage is all muffed up... Check that out and see if something is getting bound up.

 

Awesome!

Thank you everyone!

I'm going out of town for a few days, (taking the train), but I'll try out your recommendations when I get back and post to this thread with my results.