I had to read thru all the info on the stuff before I found it but you can add water to it if you have a leak and don't have any Evans coolant to add. But then when you get home you'd have to drain the whole system and add all new to your cooling system. So it could get expensive.


And you did which is why I went back and changed my post. As I said I know nothing of this shop other than what I have seen and been told.

We're good dude. Need to plan another diesel GTG over here this summer.

 

I have no doubt that shop does good work, however I know for a fact my motor got put off for race motors to be built. They had my crap for a little over 3 months. Dale should have told me to bring in the flywheel but at the same time I know they don't do many mopars so what ever.

I was so unhappy with them I will never go back nor will any of my friends.

 

Wildman, I agree we should get together. I would love to stop by and talk Jeeps/Dodges at some point. My YJ has been under the knife as of late, I can PM you a few pics if you're interested.



Derick, that's too bad that they treated you poorly. I personally use another local shop (410 Machine Service in Buckley, been in business 42 years) for my bottom end machine work, but being friends with DG Machine's cylinder head guy means I get screamin' deals on cylinder head work. Aside from him personally, I have no experience with the shop, except that the owner of 410 Machine has nothing but good things to say about Dale Green and his shop.

Unfortunately it is commonly the case for guys like us doing relatively mild projects to get somewhat overlooked, as there isn't the money in it that the racing jobs have, but yet it still requires more time/effort than a 'normal' overbore w/fresh bearings/rings on a standard rebuild. I have nothing but great things to say about 410 Machine Service though, if you ever need anything more done, give them a call and mention that Mark Bulger referred you (if ya don't mind).

 

I have recently built 2 small block chevy's and I took both blocks to napa here in auburn for the machine work. Great service and good turn around time as well.

 

Sounds like a gimmick. Note that they don't say it performs better, because it doesn't. It's a well known fact that water is by far the best liquid for holding heat. It is also the best non-metallic liquid for heat transfer too. No other liquid even comes close. If you run it, you would probably have to redesign your cooling system to make up for the reduced cooling capacity.

 

Not trying to argue but if you read thru the info on this stuff it cools better than water. Then on top of that it doesn't have the corrosion issues that water does. I don't plan on using it but it is interesting stuff. If I was running a aluminum block, heads and radiator it might be worth looking at more.

 

I did take a look, because I am curious and this is the first I've ever heard of it. It is better at some things and worse at others. Apparently, the three crucial measurements of coolant, that is, heat transfer, heat capacity and viscosity, are all significantly worse than water.

However, the waterless coolant has a much higher boiling point and so it does not build the same pressure, there's much less cavitation and you don't get the same sort of steam pockets in the head that regular coolant can cause in some cases. There were other benefits of course but I am only mentioning the ones that might affect cooling.

I would say that in an otherwise working cooling system, the waterless coolant is not worth it. However, if you have any of the problems that the waterless coolant solves then it's probably worth it, given that your cooling system has the extra capacity to handle the reduction in heat transfer and heat capacity and increase in viscosity without making your engine run hotter.

 

Wow, you must be reading something I'm not. From all that I am reading Evans Waterless Coolant cools just about the same as water. In the FAQ it is asked what will happen to the engine temp when going to EWC and they state that it will stay the same or go up slightly depending on the condition of the cooling system. That would tell me it cools as well as water. And the MAJOR benefit you get is that the boiling point is so high that you won't overheat. And on our engines with stock heads this would help to stop having the cracked heads. So I don't get where you found that it was significantly worse than water.
I would say the number 1 issue is that it is very expensive compared to water based coolant.

 

It doesn't matter what the boiling point is, you can still overheat. All a higher boiling point means JUST THAT. The normal boiling point of water is 212*F. you raise that to 260, it just means you will overheat without steam coming through your vents from the engine compartment (by the decrease in water vapor pressure in the system).

Its simple fluid dynamics.

 

Do you know what we are talking about here cptafw163? Evans waterless cooling has a boiling point of 375* so the chances of overheating is pretty slim. If you're going to comment know what is being talked about.