It's been a while since I've posted and which of course means the ole Ram needs some attention. My radiator is now leaking along with the quick disconnect fitting from the radiator to transmission check valve. I'm also way over due for plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. My valve cover gaskets are leaking like a sieve and I'm sure I am past my oil change date though not miles! I've did several searches on the plug wires and all i found were varying opinions which maybe what I get here but I'll take them! Here's my questions.

Does it matter what brand radiator? I figure they are built exactly the same with the same material and have a lifetime warranty.

I'm not caught up in the pricey wires and I figure I'll stick with Champion Copper plugs. Is just grabbing some "stock" 7mm silicon plug wires like the autolites from Autozone a good idea?

The cap and rotor I found have brass contacts. Is this a good or should I look for copper?

The tranny cooler line from the radiator to the tranny with the check valve in it is this it? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=604800_0_0_

I suppose this one still has the check valve in it?

And not to beat a dead horse but I plan on sticking with the 195 degree stat.

Any advice or quick tips for the tune up? Thanks fellas!

 

Scratch the tranny line, I'm just going to do the check valve delete.

 

Good quality wires is what you need, brand doesn't really matter. 8mm wires would be better.. but, not absolutely required.

Brass terminals are what you want for cap.

I am not sure you even get a choice on brand for the radiator.... get one with a good long warranty.

The line you showed doesn't have the check valve, but, you use a compression fitting to install it..... Yank the current hose that's in there. If it's leaking at the quick connect, replace the o-ring in there, and drill the ball out of the check valve, and remove the spring.

195 stat will be fine.

Try and crank your engine so the rotor is pointed at the number one cylinder on the cap. (it's also marked on the cap), make sure the timing mark on the balancer/timing cover line up at 0.... or thereabouts. Route wires per the TSB in the faq section.

 

the trans line you posted is a piece of hose with a quick connect fitting on one end, and a 3/8 steel line on the other. it includes a 3/8 compression union to join the new steel line to the old. you are expected to - use a tubing cutter on the old line, to cut off the check valve and fittings and any other clutter that might be present. it does not include a new check valve, nor do i see that it screws onto your existing check valve. if you did want to attach it to the existing threaded end of your hard line without the union, i think you'd need a 3/8 compression fitting typically found in the plumbing supplies.

if you want to save money, you can accomplish the same thing with about 2 or 3 feet of auto transmission hose, 4 clamps, and a tubing cutter. cut the check valve and end off the hard line of the truck, push the hose on both ends, and double clamp it.
pics... https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ter-added.html


other.
brass contacts are fine.
any premium wires/lifetime warranty are fine. don't get the super-cheap ones.
i'd get a cheap radiator off ebay.

 

Thanks guys! I think I'll go with your plan dhv for the tranny line. I figure two hose clamps on each side will hold it down pretty good. I believe I will upgrade to 8mm wires instead of the 7mms. In my electrical mind I couldn't resolve if there was enough voltage being pushed by the system to justify 8mm, but I that will just give me the option to upgrade the rest of the system! Anyone know of a user DIY on the timing chain? I've got the FSM and Haynes but they seem to contradict one another with the way I am suppose to remove the harmonic balancer. Thanks again!

 

On the 97, you need one of the flat style pullers, that you bolt to the balancer. Jaw puller may work as well, but, do NOT pull on the outer ring of the balancer. That will trash it.

Timing set isn't hard to change. Just tedious. Gotta dig fairly deep to get the cover off. Only thing you gotta be really careful on, is there are two bolts that come up thru the oil pan into the cover, and try not to rip the pan gasket when you pull the cover. I didn't have to drop my oil pan when I did mine.

Also, gasket kit comes in two flavors, one with a sleeve for the balancer, and one without. Get the one without.

 

Is it possible to take the timing cover off without removing the water pump?

 

Some of the water pump bolts go through to the block, so while it may be possible, I wouldn't risk it.

 

no.
water pump is stacked on top of the timing cover.



more pics.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ater-pump.html

 

I guess a better question would be can you leave the water pump attached to the timing cover? In your link DHV there is a pavement sucks article that says it's possible so I may try it. My water pump is less than 2 years old so I don't think I'll be replacing it. One more question, do I need to replace the crankshaft seal after removing the timing cover? From research it seems that this is optional, but I usuallys subscribe to the while its off method! I suppose this is what HeyYou was referring to?